Crapstrol can air whatever they want. They suck as oil.[&:]

 

Guess your lucky then or it was run on synthetic its whole life.


Nope not lucky car ran on Valvoline 10w30 before I owned it.
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I bought my 87 Vette conv't in 1993 from a Texas oil man and brought it up here to Ontario;he used Havoline Supreme5W-30 during the six years he owned it, and changed oil every 3,000 miles. When I bought the Vette from him it had 97,000 miles on it. I then immediately changed to Mobil 1 synthetic oil and I have absolutely no leaks anywhere. My Vette now has 167,000 km on it and I put an average of 4,000 km each Summer on it. I am a fervent believer of synthetic oil no matter the grade or name of the oil. Forwhatever this info is worth to you.

mypetu39

 

The oil argument seems to take on a religous passion every time it comes up. I participate in several boating forums as well as car forums and without a doubt this issue is the most heated. Perhaps it's because it is one of the few things most owners can do themselves.

Do I think that synthetics are better? Sure, put dino oil on a screwdriver blade and squeeze it between your fingers. Do the same with a synthetic and see what happens. That stuff is slippery and the sameprinciple applies to seals. Mech 259 called it earlier....that is what happens to older cars that switch to a synthetic. It doesn't happen all the time, but it happens enough so that owners notice. It's not a myth and it's not normally a big deal.

No engine will last forever. If you had 24,000 explosions going off every minute on average the phyics of wear and fatigue come into play. You can't do much to extend the design life (roughly 200,000 miles) but you can shorten it dramatically by abusing the engine (fatigue)and not addressing the wear side. There is no question that synthetics play a big role in reducing wear on the rings, bearings, cam and valvetrain.

The argument over whose synthetic is better, I don't have an answer for. I doubt Mobile 1 has paid off the entire car industry, but their product is recommended by a lot of high end manufacturers. The issue seems to be the amount of synthetic that each producer has in their product and how they create the secret formula they use. Without a Federal Trade Commissiondefinition and standardfor the word "synthetic" the argument over whose is better will continue for a long time fueled by the oil producers themselves.



-John


ASE Master Mechanic

 

Ok. Can I set aside the "debate" here for a post? I use to run castrol GTX in my car. Found out it sucks. This time I changed to penzoil High Mileage formula. Teal said that penzoil isnt that great of a oil either. I have no reason not to believe him and from my point of view no it is honestly not the most expensive or well known. Is there a specific type THAT I would benefit from. The ones I am looking at right now are Royal Purple, Mobile1, and amisoil. Amosol is WAY to expensive for me plus I have to order it from there website and that takes to much hassle. Mobile one and royal purple are a toss up. I hear royal purple is good and can add 5 RWHP back to some engines. Just a thought here. Thanks![&:]

 

Please explain how you came up with this decision. (I use to run castrol GTX in my car. Found out it sucks.)[align=left] [/align]

 

Kool. Ill try to switch to that in the future once my oil gets used up a bit....Ill see how the penzoil formula does then empty it and put in some RP. I dont think it will harm to change a little early....

 

I've run Mobil 1 in it, change between 3 nad 4 thousand miles and no leaks or problems at all. It may have always been on it, but it runs like a top and inside engine looks like new. Its a garage queen all winter here in CT, but come warm weather it gets driven daily. At 132k I expected leaks, but none in the last 3 years.

My sons 80 vette has 189k on it, lets say he drives it hard, but is right there on keeping it running right, and no leaks or problems either. I hear the oil leak story on syn a lot, but we have not seen it in our 2 vetts now or the 2 we had before these. Again, maybe luck.

My wifes Sonata, don't laugh, she bought new, I run Mobil ! in it, but push it to the 7500 miles the book says and it comes out pretty clean. No problems with it and she runs it to SC from CT monthly. I'd rather her beat that then my car. LOL...... Mostly I used it here for the cold weather starts in our cars and trucks for winter but no leaks in summer either.

 

this is interesting!several comments from you guys that certain oils"suck"! Does anyone want to elucidate? Why are some good and some bad and how do you tell the difference?
Dino versus synthetic???
All oils are mineral(dino) based and the synthetics just add more ingredients to a more refined mineral oil.
The only true non mineral oil I know of is a castrol product-Castrol"R" which is a vegetable oil beloved of us aged racers.Don't use it in a modern engine 'tho.
There's some real young guy's posting here with lot's of wonderful opinions garnered from god knows where,certainly not from experience.
For what it's worth here is my ten cents;
I have only ever used castrol syntec in any of my vehicles and that includes aircraft(thats a low ash product) boats cars rv's etc.
When I buy something new I flush it with a flushing oil if available or a 50/50 mix of kerosene and 10/20 oil ,change the filter,fill with cheap crap for ten minutes,drain and new filter andcastrol syntec and one can of DURALUBE.Never seen a problem yet and a lot of the time my *** is ten thousand feet up!
That's a twenty dollar investment in perhaps a twenty grand vehicle.
And at the end of the day always remember that the only accepted lubricant for aircraft is Shell!!

 

castrol=Crapstrol. Its proven mobil 1 is the top brand.....Penzoil is allright. Quakerstate is bull****. I put that in my car and it was like syrup! Synthetics or Dino. Do whatever you wish. Ill stick with dino as its cheaper.[&:]