Corvette C4 Forum 1984 through 1996

Mineral to Synthetic?

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  #21  
Old 04-05-2007, 12:37 AM
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Posts: 76
Default RE: Mineral to Synthetic?

Wondering about going the other way!

Would changing to dino stop a slow leak???????
 
  #22  
Old 04-05-2007, 01:12 AM
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Posts: 924
Default RE: Mineral to Synthetic?

I doubt it. You can try that sealant that you pour in your oil. That might work. My valve covers leak a little because they are aftermarket and dont fit exactly tight. Bolted them down as tight as they will go without cracking and new gaskets. [&:]
 
  #23  
Old 05-02-2007, 11:46 PM
Join Date: Apr 2007
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Posts: 25
Default RE: Mineral to Synthetic?

try valvoline maxlife designed for older cars with alot of milage it will stop the leaks
 
  #24  
Old 05-03-2007, 08:55 AM
Join Date: May 2007
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Posts: 18
Default RE: Mineral to Synthetic?

Ive used Castrol all 16 years of my automobile owning life, and to my personal knowledge of synthetic and mineral oil, iveread that synthetic oil does not deteriorate rubber to the extent in which conventional oil does, No lie, I had a 94 suburban with 140,000 miles that had an intake oil leak that ran down the back of the block and dripped on the ground, switched to castrol full synthetic and within 5 minutes running the motor, it never leaked again. Ive owned somewhere in the area of30 to 50vehicles,Ive used Syntec full Syn for the last 4 years in every vehicle ive owned new and used and never any issues,haveing worked for a brother inlaw with an engine shop,(Not implying to be amaster enginetechhowever, I amcertified a masterauto refinishing paint tech, through I-Car Goldand R&M BASF),found that Mobil would not stand behindANY issues oil related to its use in any customers car.Every used car ive had and replaced the oil in with Syntec, nearly doubles the oil pressure at idle. Ive had outstanding performance with Castroland wont settle for anything less.
 
  #25  
Old 05-03-2007, 10:58 PM
Join Date: Feb 2007
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Posts: 61
Default RE: Mineral to Synthetic?

Well it's wonderful to know that there are at least two of us out there that think the same!I think most of us are on here to learn a bit and swap info that may help each other but I get really exasperated with definative statements:::castrol sucks:: and no explaination of why it does!!If certain posters are garnering knowledge at the rate they seem to be they must be changing oil every thousand miles or racking up 40000 miles a .year. I actually pay a little more for Syntec than i could buy Mobil for here in Florida and I push the envelope,maybe 7500-10000 between changes..I do change filters 'tho @ 2500 and I have blocked off the recirculating gallery in my filter system. There's a Firebird (white)spring in there as well which won't allow the oil pressure to drop below 80 psi so i think I have most of it covered. THEN THERE"S DURALUBE!!!!!
 
  #26  
Old 05-03-2007, 11:08 PM
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Posts: 924
Default RE: Mineral to Synthetic?

ORIGINAL: vrooomm

Well it's wonderful to know that there are at least two of us out there that think the same!I think most of us are on here to learn a bit and swap info that may help each other but I get really exasperated with definative statements:::castrol sucks:: and no explaination of why it does!!If certain posters are garnering knowledge at the rate they seem to be they must be changing oil every thousand miles or racking up 40000 miles a .year. I actually pay a little more for Syntec than i could buy Mobil for here in Florida and I push the envelope,maybe 7500-10000 between changes..I do change filters 'tho @ 2500 and I have blocked off the recirculating gallery in my filter system. There's a Firebird (white)spring in there as well which won't allow the oil pressure to drop below 80 psi so i think I have most of it covered. THEN THERE"S DURALUBE!!!!!
Yep. Knowledgable guys on here. Mainly in my opinion mech and Leesvette.![8D]
 
  #27  
Old 05-03-2007, 11:20 PM
Join Date: May 2007
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Posts: 18
Default RE: Mineral to Synthetic?

Ive had a few friends that Ive converted from mobile 1 to castrol, I can honeslty tell a diffrence in my Corvette haveing owned it now for only 4 days,( 4th vette to date) changed to Castrol full Synthetic and even the idle is smoother, there was a little twitching here and there, almost a some what ruff idle and it is now completely eliminated and my oil pressure is 5 pounds higher at idle and at 55 mph, Ive read up on it and as far as Im concerned Castrol is A+ quality, ive read that it actually softens older dry seals and extends seal life, and reduces anywhere from 30 to 50% of internal friction,well worth the extra duckets. I'll do a little research and post some links. Heres a quiky, not as detailed as the info ive previously found, but still looking. When you pull this up just scroll down.

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/produ...tentId=6030793
This seperates the fact from fiction .
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/gener...tentId=7017050

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/gener...tentId=7008479
 
  #28  
Old 05-03-2007, 11:33 PM
Join Date: Feb 2007
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Posts: 61
Default RE: Mineral to Synthetic?

Hey blackvette,didn't starship tell you to back off??I have no interest in your opinion so leave me be.
 
  #29  
Old 05-04-2007, 12:41 AM
Join Date: Apr 2007
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Posts: 63
Default RE: Mineral to Synthetic?

my 2 cents- you guys should know that shell owns quakerstate, pennzoil, and of course shell. when you shop for oil look at the api label on the back of the bottle. as far as organic is concerned, it all comes out of the same hole in the ground. As far as synthetic goes, while it promises longer severe service intervals, having been in the oil busines for 20+ years i can say only this: oil does 4 things it cools,cleans lubricates and seals. all goodoilshave a high detergent quality. Idon't care what the owners manual or marketing strategy for the diifferent brands say- change you oil every 3 thousand miles. It's a whole lot cheaper than a tank of gas, right?
 
  #30  
Old 05-04-2007, 01:15 AM
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Posts: 924
Default RE: Mineral to Synthetic?

ORIGINAL: scooterman

my 2 cents- you guys should know that shell owns quakerstate, pennzoil, and of course shell. when you shop for oil look at the api label on the back of the bottle. as far as organic is concerned, it all comes out of the same hole in the ground. As far as synthetic goes, while it promises longer severe service intervals, having been in the oil busines for 20+ years i can say only this: oil does 4 things it cools,cleans lubricates and seals. all goodoilshave a high detergent quality. Idon't care what the owners manual or marketing strategy for the diifferent brands say- change you oil every 3 thousand miles. It's a whole lot cheaper than a tank of gas, right?
Yea, doesnt matter who makes the oil, just change it as insurance...Synthetic is more slicker and does reduce friction.
 
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