yea mines been cut but i am going to get a k n n air filter i been hearing it help air flow i notice a increase just taking air cleaner complete out it has better response of course i dont drive it witout one lol hey on the air foil mine just sits inside of the air intake duck work rite betwwen the maf and throttel body it dosent bolt on maybe i just got the cheapo brand lol

 

Sorry I haven't commented on your mods, but truthfully I haven't got much into mods on my C4. All those mods are sound improvements because of the limitations of the TPI setup on middle 80's Vettes. To me, it sure sounds like you are the right track without having to go into the engine to boost horsepower. The main formula for horsepower is cylinder pressure. The more gas and air you can squeeze into the cylinders, the more hp you can generate. The mods you are doing help produce cooler, denser air, which equates to more air. Another mod that I want to try is a bigger bore throttle body, which you might consider. Good Luck!! [8D]

 

Actually, the reason for the screens is to create turbulence. Turbulance helps combustion which helps economy. Just a small tidbit for you.[8D]

 

Mech259, That's what I was thinking no reason for filtering that far back. also in another post someone mention pollishing the intake ports on the manifold and heads. I was taught to leave the intake semi pollished so it would mix the air/fuel better before it entered the cylinder. pollish the chambers and the exhaust ports after you remove the emissions humps(Ford). Breathing is a big deal for ICE's. Does this sound right? it always seamed to work pretty good.

 

Porting and polishing cylinder heads always helps performance. The more air/fuel you can get in the cylinders and the faster you can get it there helps on cylinder pressure and makes your engine breathe better. But this is intrusive work and porting and polishing is very time consuming, hence expensive. It is all done with a grinding tool by hand most of the time. Leave it to the proffesionals. LOL [8D]

 

http://www.tpis.com/

 

IN RESPONSE TO WHAT A COOLER THERMOSTAT DOES (FROM WHAT I UNDERSTAND) IS IT FOOLS THE COMPUTER TO STAY IN CLOSED LOOP MODE LONGER WHICH MAKES IT RUN RICHER AND GIVES MORE TIMING ADVANCE. I'M NOT SURE ON THE SPECIFICS OF THIS BUT I KNOW IT HAS SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE COMPUTER AND HOW IT COMPENSTATES FOR A COLDER ENGINE THAT IS TRYING TO WARM UP.

 

What determines when an ECM pulls into closed loop is based on several factors. ECM looks at operating temp, exhaust temp by watching O2 sensor, and fuel trim readings. Exhaust temp is determined by O2 activity. The makeup of O2 sensor dictates that exhaust temp has to reach a certain point before the sensor starts really getting active. Actually, the ECM doesn't really look at the O2 readings until the engine goes into closed loop. On you older FI vehicles, it mainly uses MAP sensor readings and/or MAF readings. Then it uses coolant temp, manifold air temp, O2 readings to fine tune fuel control. [8D]

 

in repairing electronics for many years, I always found that modifying the product from it's original design, always runs the risk of engineering in new problems that may lead to more serious problems. The only thing I have done to my 84 is to use one of the 195 degree temperature switches, I believe that running an engine cooler is beneficial

 

Fuel injected engines are designed to run @ 195 -200 degrees. They are more fuel efficient that way. Combustion properties are more effiecient the hotter the engine temperature is. What the manufacturers have done is try to reach a happy medium without sinking a bunch of money into engine block design and metallurgy so as to make it as hot as can be allowed to promote those properties. [8D]