I am in the process of removing the old Delteq system on my '93 LT1 and returning it to the stock system. Put a new coil and module on and have the wires on the right installed from the opti spark. The opti spark outlets had not been covered so I did my best to clean them with a small rag wrapped around a pencil to clean the inside. I can't even see the left bank and may have to raise the car and try from underneath or else take off alternator and several other things mounted on that side, Anny ideas on that? I could see the coil part on the opti spark and it hasome antifreeze in from when I rehooked up the hoses that went to the throttle body as it had a bypass connector. I cut very narrow piece of a sponge to get the moisture out and used some brake cleaned to finish cleaning it. Now the problem is getting the boot of the coil wire on as it is very small area to work and the space between the pump and coil wire casing is smaller than the rubber boot, HELP! Hopefully when I get it running again the code 42 will be gone. Supposedly there is only 6000 miles on the opti spark, but have a new one on the shelf. Thanks. scott

 

I am just curios as to why you are removing the Delteq? It is so much better than the Opti. I know that Delteq is either out of business or at the very least you cannot contact them anymore.

 

The Delteq system was a great idea, but feel it fell somewhat short from what little experience I have had with it. Now that they are out of business, the main controler module (not sure what it is called without looking in the book) I don't think is available in some form as an aftermarket part. The coils and the computer module that they bolt to are early Northstar parts. In my case, I decided not to get a new computer module as the problem may be in the "controller module". What they should have also made as they still use the opti-spark distributor for the signals would have been to make a replacement distibutor with no coilwire and spark plug outlets, thus only using just the plug in wire for the pickup sensors. I was told that my optispark has only 6000 miles on it, so converting it back to a coil may correct my code 42 problem. I also heard that the Delteq system was susceptible to spark scatter to cause mis firing. I have read that there are many who also have gone over a 100,000 miles with original opti-spark distributors without problems. The unit I have bought if I need to replace the optspark is called a Dynaspark. A heavyduty unit with bigger bearing and a case that is sealed much better than the old system. I will say this for the Delteq system that with no high voltage passing through the opti-spark would make it less likely to have spark tracking and shorting in the case.

Hopefully this clarifies my situation a little bit more.

Anyone out there that has the Dynaspark system care to comment about how they like or dislike it??

Thanks,

scott

 

In my previous post (Putting on coil wire), what I called the controller module is actually called the Opti-Box. In the information from Delteq they say it is the brains of the system. And since that part is no longer available that I am aware of, I am going to the Dynaspark replacement.

The Delteq web site:
http://www.delteq.com/opti_pricing.htm

The Dynasparc web site:
http://www.dynaspark.net/products/

For those who maybe considering replacing there Optispark GM system

 

Many threads mention loosening (not removing) the power steering pump and moving it forward slightly. Use a deep well socket to reach through the pump pulley holes and access the mounting bolt that's behind the pulley.

 

Thanks for the info about the P. Steering pump. I pulled the alternator off. Still may need to loosen that big aluminum bracket that the AC unit is on to. The 1 hose clamp I see was loose and may have been dripping, so will replace the hose and clamps, the hose looks a little short so may add about 2" that goes to the throttle body. When I got it it had a bypass on it, but being in colder weather here in Michigan I hooked it back up. Goal is to have it up and running by 1 April if it warms up enough and it is nice out.

 

Saturday I got the coil wire on, it was tight fit, using one finger on the back side to keep it going on the post and pushing it on at the same time. I still not sure where the other bolt is for the aluminum bracket for AC, Alternator is at. If that would come off I could probably see the posts for the plug wires. Maybe I needed to remove the belt tensioner to get to that bolt, not sure? Or can I reach them from the bottom side of the engine? They will need to be cleaned out before I put the wires on. I will use a little dielectric grease on the boots to help slide the wire's on better. Will jack car up and place stands underneath and remove tire to get under car.

Other things to do yet is replace dimmer switch for the lights and outside temperature sensor and maybe the lumbar seat connections as well as the CD player, the cassete works ok. I also got the connectors for the CAGS to put on the transmission.

 

I would go ahead and pull the water pump and the distributor and check not only the plug holes [ caps are not so expensive], but the inside too.

Your unit is pre vacuum and subject to corrosion from ozone gas anyway.
A little thing I found out on my second Opti install was put your plug wires from the driver side on before putting the opti back on.
Made it a lot easier believe me.

I just got a replacement Opti from Accel for one that went bad and I have friends that had problems with MSD opti's but I know the OEM is as good a unit as the others being they are designed to last 160,000 miles and often go 250,000 miles.

All the units are good to 7700 RPM's and after that you have to go to a mag.
The OPTI is a vast improvement over the HEI's .
It's not the OPTI's fault it was placed in a bad position.
I'll put the aftermarket replacement back on but include the OEM one in my road kit when the Hot Rod goes on the road out of town.
I got to change plug wires anyway cause my headers cooked a couple of them.
Don't spare the silicone around the outside as anything helps in case a hose fails.
I put a fitting and hose that drops away from the opti on the water pump to end the design flaw of water weep hole lined up to destroy OPTI.
While you are there anyway remove your coil and take loose your Ignition Control Module located under it and add a washer on either side to get air behind it and get it away from the high temps of being attached to the head.

Works alot better than the silicone thermal gel.