check this thread out for pics of a seafoam treatment throught the booster line: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...hlight=seafoam

Also, only let it sit 15-20 minutes, don't let it sit longer before restarting it to burn the Seafoam out.

It will also mist your O2 sensor and throw a code that you will need to reset, at least it does on an LT1.

Yes it can hydrolock the motor, pretty easy if you are not real sure of what your doing: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...hlight=seafoam

 

 

Will have to try this in a number of my vehicles. I did use some one time in an auto trans and it made a big difference with shifting.

 

Did it to 3 GM vehicles, Including the Vette. Used Common sense (sold separately). Out of 6 O2 sensors 6 of them are fine. If your gonna try it follow the directions on the can. It is not a big deal. Does work great for removing carbon and as afuel stabilyzer.

 

Id do it....I just dont wanna tear summin up. Ill keep it in the gas tank I guess....If I run it thru JUST the gas tank, will it delete the carbon in the motor **pistions, lifters, cam**ect......????????????

 

Probably some, But putting itinto the engine with it running dramatically cleans the valves and pistons. If your comfortable with it don't do it. But I do remember the Old Timers back in the days would pour water into their 4 barrell secondaries with it running to do the same thing. Terrified me.

 

Yea, I've heard of auto trans fluid doing the same thing. The old timers would use type F. seemed to do something. My Dad would use gummout religiously.

 

In the "GOOD OLD DAYS" when oil was crap we went for 10,000 mile changes and tampons gave better filtration than anything else on the market and gas was so good you could get huge amounts of carbon and sulphur build up in what is now considered normal service periods there were two basic choices.A regular service at a certain mileage included a decarbonisation or as we called it back in the old country a decoke.Pull the head(s) valves,scrape the tops of the pistons da da da .OR set the idle to around 2000 and induce water into the engine.This was not made public knowledge as it was a much cheaper proceedure and therefore profits would have declined but in general it was a much more effective way of decoking.
Nowdays you just don't get that effect with modern lubricants and gasoline.-build up that is.
BUT!! water injection is great if your convinced that your engine is all coked to hell.
HERE'S THE PROCEEDURE Y'ALL AND PAY ATTENTION-carburated engines
engine cold(thats not hot)-you will perhaps crack the valves if you do this with a hot one
idle 2000(only the primaries are open(previous post)
pour in about the same amount of water as you can **** on a good day.
you will notice a small RPM drop,anything more and your pissing too hard. Keep it up for around five minutes and it should clean up the internals.
If you see ANYTHING other than steam coming out of the exhaust pipe(S) you are in serious **** or 16 years old.
If a piece of carbon could fly off a valve and negociate it's way through a couple of catalitic convertors,an expansion box,a sidesaddle silencer
and two more hushpuppies I want to see this .
What was that post about an egg cup full of seafoam andchunks of carbon flying out the pipes????
Are these people putting thiscrap in their engines or drinking it?

 

I would reply with something sarcastic about drinking engine treatment but from the other responses I see here someone would try it. In this post did anyone recomend putting this stuff in their oil? I sure didn't. The fine powdery black stuff left on the driveway after using Seafoam as recomended on the can? If I had to guess, I'd say carbon, Can't be positive though didn't taste it.