c5 rotors warping
Exactly....I use the Napa $25 rotors on the track and they don't warp....I'm thinking one of the smarter guys on here will have a guess...but something must be up with your brakes themselves that is causing you to do that to your rotors???? I'm curious as to what that could be myself......
the original rotors warped after 10k miles. i lived with the pulsating until brakes were needed at 35k. Chevy dealer did the replacement of brakes and cut the rotors. again 10k until pulsating started. so these are still the original rotors and only Chevy installed pads. no heavy driving or track. now that im at 70k i need brakes again, so i want to do the job myself and use new rotors. just dont know what to use.
Ah, the dreaded pulsating rotor syndrome. I know it well.
You might want to read this:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1410305
Bottom line: Some types of pads will transfer uneven deposits of pad material to the rotor. The OEM rotor is not warped, but the pad deposits make the pulsating pedal simulate a warped rotor condition. Any plain rotor, including the NAPA $30 one, will do the same thing with those pads. Some people find that ceramic pads solve the problem, but I waswn't going to take a chance, so I solved my problem permanently. How? Read the linked post!
Dave
You might want to read this:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1410305
Bottom line: Some types of pads will transfer uneven deposits of pad material to the rotor. The OEM rotor is not warped, but the pad deposits make the pulsating pedal simulate a warped rotor condition. Any plain rotor, including the NAPA $30 one, will do the same thing with those pads. Some people find that ceramic pads solve the problem, but I waswn't going to take a chance, so I solved my problem permanently. How? Read the linked post!
Dave
GREAT INFO DAVE! my breaks are pulsating but i'm living with it for now untill i'm ready to change out pads & rotors (which is pretty soon)... i agree w/ your info regarding drilled vs. slots...i've done trial and error back in my "ricer" days w/ both options...and of course i went w/ the drilled first because of all the hype regarding "better stopping power due to less heat"...but of course you know the story...they cracked...so thumbs up to slotted rotors!
Also...crusing through ebay i saw a set of 4 brand new slotted rotors w/ pads a couple days ago...you may want to check it out before you spend too much money elsewhere...especially if you're gonna do the work yourself...
Also...crusing through ebay i saw a set of 4 brand new slotted rotors w/ pads a couple days ago...you may want to check it out before you spend too much money elsewhere...especially if you're gonna do the work yourself...
Dan,
PowerSlot also makes dimpled and slotted rotors. The dimples are FAR less likely to allow crack propogation, but as you know, those dimples are for looks, only. When you do buy rotors, avoid those made in China - many are made of inferior steel. Also, the cadmium-plated rotors, like the PowerSlots, will look nice far longer than unprotected or zinc-washed rotors. Yes, you pay for the extra protection, but in all likelyhood, a good set of rotors will last a long time. I don't expect to change my cryo PowerSlots for the next 20 years!
Dave
PowerSlot also makes dimpled and slotted rotors. The dimples are FAR less likely to allow crack propogation, but as you know, those dimples are for looks, only. When you do buy rotors, avoid those made in China - many are made of inferior steel. Also, the cadmium-plated rotors, like the PowerSlots, will look nice far longer than unprotected or zinc-washed rotors. Yes, you pay for the extra protection, but in all likelyhood, a good set of rotors will last a long time. I don't expect to change my cryo PowerSlots for the next 20 years!
Dave
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Petew1971
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