Pro Charger
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2
From:
RE: Pro Charger
See My Vette
http://C:\Documents and Settings\HP_Administrator\My Documents\My Pictures\OLYMPUS Master 2\2007\05\09
http://C:\Documents and Settings\HP_Administrator\My Documents\My Pictures\OLYMPUS Master 2\2007\05\09
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,105
From: Central North Carolina
RE: Pro Charger
The link you attached does not work for me. But regardless, I have a built C5R 427 in my car (basically the same engine as an LS7 built with aftermarket parts would be, with a Procharger D1SC and methanol injection. 703 RWHP - twice what the C5 ZO6 had and 250+ more than the C6 ZO6.
First, is the car driveable on the street? Definately, if you are a bit disciplined. I run 345 section drag radials on it all the time -- despite their size and gooey rubber, the car will break traction on power alone (no dropping the clutch) in first, second, and sometimes 3rd gear.The traction control doesn't always catch it, either. But I drive it to work and in traffic and around town all week and never have any problems (except, with drag radials, it will not go in rain -- hydroplanes on just a film of water).
Technical thoughts: I'd start by putting good 1 7/8 inch long tube headers on the car, upgraded cats, etc.
Without rebuilding the stock bottom end you should limit boost to about 5-6 lbs and RWHP to about 600 (150 more than stock). You may have problems with the combination of very high compression ratio on your stock engine and more than 5 lbs of boost. Note that the standard P model Procharger will not blow enough air. The next size up D1SC will. The even larger F model is not recommended: the D1 will blow all the air your engine can take without blowing up the stock bottom end and the F is heavier and harder to fit under the hood. Be sure to get air to air intercoolers -- they are worth it. You will not need the optional kit for the wider belt (it costs only a bit more but gets really difficult to fit under the hood)
Prochargers (as well as the Vortech) have adesign flaw that you should go ahead and fix before putting it on the car. The plate holding the idler and tensioner pulley tends to warp-- not enough to see with the eye but enough to see with a ruler, and then they throw belts, usually on deceleration. You can buy an upgraded plate from A&A Corvettes: get one and put it on before you even fit the thing: if you can buy your Procharger without the intercoolers, you might consider doing so and then getting A&A's upgraded intercooler instead -- supposed to be superior.
Consider upgrading to a higher rated radiator at the same time: you'll need the additional cooling capacity --larger radiators and the Procharger's intake filter will compete for the same space and it will be easier for your shop to install them both at the same time and resolve their fit together while both are out of the car at the same time. And if upgraded oil coolers exist for the dry sump LS7, I';d recommend it. Oil tempurature can spike in seconds with a SCr.
Finally, your satisfaction with the car will depend on the "tune" you get. You will have to have a good shop reprogram the ECM while the car is on a dyno to get the power and to assure you don't go too lean, etc. It will be cheap ($500-$750) to have the car tuned for max power and full boost, etc. However, your day to day satsfaction will depend on having them also tune it while they drive it (use a laptop the store info from the drive etc.) so that the car runs perfectly at 1/4 throttle, in traffic, when its warming up, etc. That can cost a lot more. Also, they can re-program the "throttle map" -- how far the electronic throttle opens as you mash down on the pedal: on mine, I have to press way more than 1/2 way down to get anything dramatic, then in the last 1/4 of the pedal's travel all hell breaks lose: this helps a lot to make it civilized on the street. If you are anywhere near North Carolina you might consider having Carolina Auto Masters (John Creech) do the tune -- he is a wizard with the vette ECM and tunes a lot of very high power GM engines. But there are other shops around the country that are good.
One thing I would not do is change the cam . Let the Procharger to all the work: its all you need to push the engine to its limit of durability, and the stock cam will preserve the stock driveability around town. If you have money, you might upgrade the rockers (I've heard they give problems) to Jesel pro-series shaft mounted rockers, to equivalent, not needed but that's about all else I would do.
First, is the car driveable on the street? Definately, if you are a bit disciplined. I run 345 section drag radials on it all the time -- despite their size and gooey rubber, the car will break traction on power alone (no dropping the clutch) in first, second, and sometimes 3rd gear.The traction control doesn't always catch it, either. But I drive it to work and in traffic and around town all week and never have any problems (except, with drag radials, it will not go in rain -- hydroplanes on just a film of water).
Technical thoughts: I'd start by putting good 1 7/8 inch long tube headers on the car, upgraded cats, etc.
Without rebuilding the stock bottom end you should limit boost to about 5-6 lbs and RWHP to about 600 (150 more than stock). You may have problems with the combination of very high compression ratio on your stock engine and more than 5 lbs of boost. Note that the standard P model Procharger will not blow enough air. The next size up D1SC will. The even larger F model is not recommended: the D1 will blow all the air your engine can take without blowing up the stock bottom end and the F is heavier and harder to fit under the hood. Be sure to get air to air intercoolers -- they are worth it. You will not need the optional kit for the wider belt (it costs only a bit more but gets really difficult to fit under the hood)
Prochargers (as well as the Vortech) have adesign flaw that you should go ahead and fix before putting it on the car. The plate holding the idler and tensioner pulley tends to warp-- not enough to see with the eye but enough to see with a ruler, and then they throw belts, usually on deceleration. You can buy an upgraded plate from A&A Corvettes: get one and put it on before you even fit the thing: if you can buy your Procharger without the intercoolers, you might consider doing so and then getting A&A's upgraded intercooler instead -- supposed to be superior.
Consider upgrading to a higher rated radiator at the same time: you'll need the additional cooling capacity --larger radiators and the Procharger's intake filter will compete for the same space and it will be easier for your shop to install them both at the same time and resolve their fit together while both are out of the car at the same time. And if upgraded oil coolers exist for the dry sump LS7, I';d recommend it. Oil tempurature can spike in seconds with a SCr.
Finally, your satisfaction with the car will depend on the "tune" you get. You will have to have a good shop reprogram the ECM while the car is on a dyno to get the power and to assure you don't go too lean, etc. It will be cheap ($500-$750) to have the car tuned for max power and full boost, etc. However, your day to day satsfaction will depend on having them also tune it while they drive it (use a laptop the store info from the drive etc.) so that the car runs perfectly at 1/4 throttle, in traffic, when its warming up, etc. That can cost a lot more. Also, they can re-program the "throttle map" -- how far the electronic throttle opens as you mash down on the pedal: on mine, I have to press way more than 1/2 way down to get anything dramatic, then in the last 1/4 of the pedal's travel all hell breaks lose: this helps a lot to make it civilized on the street. If you are anywhere near North Carolina you might consider having Carolina Auto Masters (John Creech) do the tune -- he is a wizard with the vette ECM and tunes a lot of very high power GM engines. But there are other shops around the country that are good.
One thing I would not do is change the cam . Let the Procharger to all the work: its all you need to push the engine to its limit of durability, and the stock cam will preserve the stock driveability around town. If you have money, you might upgrade the rockers (I've heard they give problems) to Jesel pro-series shaft mounted rockers, to equivalent, not needed but that's about all else I would do.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
2007, bitlyxsrepa, c6, c6forum, charger, corvette, drive, f3r130, gear, http, httpbitlyxsrepa, injection, ls7, methanol, pro, procharger, tempurature, water
