Don't forget to prime the oiling system before you start the engine after a rebuild.
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I'm only doing the top end....cam, springs, lifters, push rods, water pump, oil pump, etc.
That won't require a prime, will it? |
I would because it only costs about $20 for the oil priming rod that goes in in place of the distributor. Takes a couple of minutes and then you can replace the distributor and rest assured that it will have oil everywhere when you start it up.
If you do decide to prime it, be sure you have a good grip on the drill that you're using to turn the primer because when the oil pump picks up its prime, it exerts quite a bit of force back on the drill. |
No distributor in my car.....2013.
:) |
Sorry about that. Forgot which section I was in. Presents an interesting problem. Wonder how you prime the newer engines.
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Priming the newer engines that’s a little more work but is well worth the investment.
frist the fuel system should be inactivated by cutting the power to the fuel pump. Next disconnect the power to the coil packs so there’s no spark. Now with no fuel and no spark you’ll be able to turn the engine over for a few minutes priming oil to the cam. It would be nice to pull the plugs making it easier to turn over so if you can get to them do that. Must of the time there a bear to find let alone getting to. |
Thanks for that. Should have thought of that. 🤔
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👍🏼 That’s why we’re all on here!
happy motoring guys |
Absolutely!! :confused:
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Just for anyone referencing this thread in the future, new valve springs typically need 3 heat cycles before driving the car.
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