Hi All. Been having some trouble with my 73 starting. It was having some trouble starting when it was hot. It wouldn't even turn over so it appeared that the starter was getting no power. At first, I thought it was the neutral safety switch (4 speed) so I bypassed it with just a standard on/off switch to see if that was the problem. Nope. I then read about heat soak. So, I replaced the starter with a PowerMaster starter. Works great, but not the problem. Power is not reaching the starter. And, it has the problem now when it is cold as well. Definitely not heat soak. Sometimes, I would turn the key and nothing. Then, I'd do that sigh and say a little prayer and then try again and it'd start. Sometimes, there would be a delay while the key was turned. At first there would be nothing and then after 1-2 seconds, it would fire up. Yesterday, I popped the hood to try testing some connections while my wife turned the key. Every other time she turned it, it would start. I wouldn't even touch anything. One time, starts, the next time, nothing. The ignition switch seems to be ok because everything else powers up when turning the key. When it gets power, it fires right up strong. When it's not getting power -- nothing. Not even a click at the starter. I have an electrical tester, but don't even know what to test, or how. What is the "order of operations" when starting so I can go through the sequence to try and find the problem? Any suggestions? I hate dropping off a car at the Corvette shop and saying "The problem happens sometimes. What's wrong? How much is it going to cost?" I tried jumping it when it was dead hoping it was the battery, but that did nothing so it's probably not the battery. I replaced the battery, all of the battery terminals and ground wires and alternator less than 2 years , so those shouldn't be the problem either. I'd appreciate any suggestions as I am at a complete loss on what to do next. Thanks!

 

Looks like you have a good one! Still could be the ignition switch,the "start" contacts. On the starter solenoid there are two small terminals,one labeled "S" and one labeled "R" Put your meter or test light on the "S" terminal and turn the switch to "start" if you have power,the problem is in the solenoid,probably not because you have had two starters on it. I'm not familiar with the 73's,do they have a built-in alarm? If so ,it could be the starter lockout relay in the alarm is acting up,the next step takes us back to the ignition switch thru the neutral safety swtch. If you have a shop manual or assembly manual,you should be able to locate the specific terminal on the switch. Another possibility could be a fuse or fusible link in the starter circuit and I don't have the manuals I need to verify that. You also can jump directly from battery + (the large terminal on the alternator) directly to the "S" on the starter to check the solenoid.My schematic is for a 79 and there are a bunch of anti-theft switches in the circuit,but I don't know about the 73?
"Order of operation should be ign to neutral to starter with any anti-theft stuff probably between the neutral and the starter.
Good Luck!
Ron

 

Thanks! "looks like you have a good one" is just what everyone loves to hear. lol. The new PowerMaster starter is nice because the S line and battery lines are visible and accessible from the side of the car. The R terminal is no longer used since the car no longer has points on it. I was really hoping it was the starter, but it's not. I had a 3rd party alarm system put in so maybe I'll have the installers check that out to make sure it's correct. Not sure how one flick of the ignition is dead and the next fires up, but it's a place to start. I totally bypassed the neutral safety switch. Maybe it is the ignition switch itself. When the key is turned, there is absolutely nothing except for the fan to die down to nothing like there's a complete power draw. That's why I didn't think it was the ignition since it's making contact to draw off the battery. Any way to check if it's the coil? But, I thought the coil came into play after the starter. I'm curious what would happen if I tried to jump start the car by jumping the starter directly. I have heard of a Hot Shot or a Ford solenoid that you wire up separately with direct battery lines and install a bump button in the engine comp. If the car won't start, you bump the starter directly by pushing the button. That's OK, but clearly masking the underlying problem. Plus, it's just not cool if you have to pop the hood and bump the car in order to start it... Thanks again!

 

I'd bet on the ignition switch. Fairly easy to replace if you have a steering wheel puller.

BTW the '73 alarm is just that, no starter lockout.

 

I would recheck all of the ground connections especially where the neg bat cable connects to the frame.

Schoon

 

It's not the starter, not an alarm lockout, not the battery, and the coil has nothing at all to do with the starter working or not.
Since the starter works and then doesn't,......
I bet cha a shiny new nickle its the ignition switch.

Try this,...
Use a wire to jump your starter teminals. (unplug your coil first, ya don't want the engine to start)
Repeat this 5 or 6 times. If the starter engauges/runs every time, the prob is the switch.
If the starter fails to engauge even once, its your solinoid.

.....and I agree with SCHOON, check your neg bat cable for good ground, ya might do that first just to eliminate that possible issue.

 

Thanks so much for some direction! I originally ruled out the ignition switch because of the power draw when I turned the key past On and to Start. I could hear the fan stop and total power drop while trying to send power to starter. I figured the ignition switch was making contact. I replaced the ground cable when I replaced the previous starter (I'm on starter #3 now!), alternator, battery, etc. I'll double-check all the grounds again first. I know that the 3rd party alarm I had installed has an engine disable, so I'll check that out to make sure it's correct as well. BTW, the new PowerMaster starter is really nice.

I have a shiny new nickel all picked out...

 

The fan will run down and a lot of stuff will shut off when the key is turned to "start". It's designed that way to send the starter max power.

 

Well... I finally found the problem. I replaced the battery, ground cables, neutral safety switch, starter and all the wires running to/from. The last thing to check was the ignition switch. When I searched for parts, I found the tumbler and the ignition switch (bottom of the steering column) online. I ordered both since I was going to have it all apart anyway. The problem wasn't with the tumbler and the ignition switch looked ok. It was a little corroded, but didn't seem to be too bad. Replaced them both and still had a problem. I noticed on the ignition switch though that holes for the bolts to attach the switch were elongated ovals instead of exact circles. The bar that comes down from the tumbler to engage the ignition switch was pushing the ignition switch away on the bolts. That's been the problem the whole time. It's a really flaky setup with the way it engages the ignition switch. And if it loosens, it won't make proper contact and engage. Why weren't they made as circles instead of ovals??? And, after nearly 40 years of rattling around, it slid down enough to not make good contact. Now that it's secured in the closest position in the oval, it makes great contact every time. And, since I had everything apart and hated parking on hills for so long to pop-start, I set up a direct connection from the battery to the starter with a quick start button under the dash for good measure. Of course, since I put that in, I haven't needed to use it!

 

My guess is that they're slots instead of holes to allow for adjustment during assembly or to compensate for wear in your case.