Hello guys, had an idle problem so I replaced the entire intake gaskets, newMAF, new IAC,new cap, rotor and plugs. Can't detect any vacuum leaks with the propane torch. When I back probe the EGR solenoid it has no effect on rpm. I checked the knock sensor by hitting the exhaust while checking for a signal on pin c and e, I did not get a signal. My idle problem is intermittant now but I don't have any power off the line. The only code present is 43, which is my knock sensor. One thing to note is that when I have a timing light hooked up, the mark is not steady, it wanders up and down about 2 degrees. This car is kicking my butt, looking for some good advice and possibly a phone number sinceI type extremely slow. Thanks.

 

http://www.syty.org/old/d&e-code43.html

http://www.syty.org/old/d&e.html

 

Try to disconnect the knock sensor (when the cars is not running) then reconnect it and start it see what the timing light does, if it is steady its your problem but it may not be the sensor, the reason you dont have any power is b/c your knock sensor retards you timing when it detects a knock(these are VERY VERY VERY sensitive) so you must not over look the fast they might be detecting a knock or detonation, im assuming you checked your timing when you replaced the ignition components. I have experienced this exact problem and disconnected the knock sensor made sure the timing was perfect and no more problems on several cars, you can call me if you have any questions but try this B4 you call unless you dont understand. 706-978-9103 GA,trion

 

Decided to tear down the intake to rule out the possibility of a vauum leak and found my EGR switch wire disconnected. I'll reassemble and check the knock sensor tomorrow. Thanks for the help.

 

Imissed the second page....... change your burnoff relays right behind the battery on the fire wall 15mins-$15 easy cheap o2 sensor if not new replace it cheap easy, the maf should be pulling 4-8 grams per second past it if too high the ecm will try to compenstate by starving the car and lowering the RPM's if its at 9grams or higher change it, also if you know somone who has and extra one you can swap it and see if that changes it. keep in mind mid america has a theMAF for $329.00 but super expensive.
also check the connections to the relays and the connection to the MAF , also with the engine idling, try tapping the MAF sensor with the handle of a 6" screwdriver. I don't mean belt it with a 3 pound hammer, just tap it lightly, if the engine stumbles with ever tap=bad
ECM is the last resort it may be bad and hunting for the idle all on its own but UNLIKELY
hope this helps you bro!!!

 

also I would like you to think of on other thing the distributor may be badit self i had a a prob like it on an 89xr4ti and it was the distributor but run through the other b4 you comsiter that an option

 

Check continuity of your knock sensor wire. If you replace knock sensor, make sure and torque it properly because overtorqing will damage the integrity of the sensor. Corvettes have a nasty habit of breaking wire or getting caught and grounding out. If you had access to a scan tool, it will tell you right off if knock sensor is working.

 

If the EGR was disconnected, this would account for the still-existing vacuum leak. I don't know what the purge cycle is for the evap cannister, but I think it cues off of the EGR vacuum. You did say the loping idle was gone???

I do NOT think the disconnected EGR accounts for the power loss...