Please help. I have a 1987 that is in the repair shop and they cannot find the problem. I took the car in because it would not start after driving it for short 10-15 mile drives. It would act as if it was flooded. Eventually it would cool down and then start and run poorly for a few minutes then clear up and behave enough to get me home. The repair shop replaced the MAS and the burnoff relay to it thinking they had solved the problem. It did not. Now they say it "might" be the fuel pump delivering low volume of gas. I have lost faith in their ability and just want my car back. They have had it for nearly a month. Anyone have any ideas on what to try? Thanks, Steve

 

I had a similar problem with 1989. Mechanic replaced 2 relays, swapped out ECM. It came down to TWO faulty injectors, one in each bank. The car would start cold, idle rough and if stalled out or shut off wouldn't re-fire for 3 hours. PITA to trouble shoot and gets codes out of was throwing a few codes out, that is why relays replace. ONCE all the injectors replaced (if 2 Multitech failed, others would eventual) and a good tuneup car has driven great for a year without any codes. Faulty injectors cause ECM to shut down one bank of injectors, with 1 bad in both banks ECM was shutting both sides down.

 

I am leaning towards injectors also. Have they ohmed them out?

 

I will suggest checking the injectorsto the mechanics. They have the car all screwed up now , so I am fearing the worst. They took the computer out , tried 3 different mass airflow sensors, replaced relay...now they are guessing...Thanks for the thoughts.
Steve

 

get the car back, take a fuel pressure check, if the fuel pressure is ok, then check the injectors. Start by unplugging the connectors. You squeeze the silver clip, then pull gently. when it's off, you will see 2 little small blades in the injector hole the connector came out of. get a cheapie ohm meter from radio shack, ($15) and click to the 0-150 ohm scale, put the 2 leads on the blades, read the meter. it should go to about 16 ohms if the scale is selected correctly. do all 8. If one is less than 15, it is bad. any place that reconditions them should be able to sell you one for $45 used, guaranteed for 30 days. (if it goes 30 days, it should last a few years)
Pull the spark plugs on the cylinders with the bad injectors, If they are fouled, it is a second method to confirm the injector is bad.
To replace the injector, you have to replace all the o-rings on all the injectors. Unbolt the fuel rail with 4 bolts,don't remove the fuel lines, the injectors have a clip that turns 90 degrees andpop out, put the new o-rings on, use a little vaseline or high temp grease to make them slide in easy, then put the fuel rail back down with the 4 bolts. Turn the clips, clip the wires back on. super easy.
I can get o ring kits for cheap if you go that way. $9.00 for 16 injector rings,$10 for the fuel rail ones, add a dollar for shipping. E-mail meat Hillenger@qwest.net, and I can tell my friend to get the o-rings.
Chris

 

Get your baby back ASAP! If they are just the guessing type they may end up doing more damage than good[:@]

Otherwise the advise you are getting sounds good so far...

Good luck bro! [sm=icon_cheers.gif]

 

there's a few threads on here somewhere that address a problem close if not the same as this. It speaks of the fuel pump relay going bad and the car not starting until the oil pressure comes up to a certain pressure. From what I understand the relay is on the rear of the block and when it gets hot will not work correctly.My '87 does this once in awhile as well.I'll try to find the thread. Cheers

 

sometimes that can even be traced to a defective battery! when you r guessing, it usually costs a lot more

 

There's that fully automatic assault wallet in action again [sm=violent053.gif][sm=shootshoot.gif]. All out assault with a volley of new parts - always fails. ALWAYS. No codes on a poorly running motor = vacuum leaks. Almost ALWAYS.

You did get your old, properly working parts back (and your cash), right?

Get your car back, pull the intake all the way to the heads, get the plenum, the runners, and the intake professionally cleaned (you can do it yourself, but it is VERY difficult, and that Chem-Solv is at the basic (not acidic) end of the pH scale - tough on the digits (gets thefingernails clean tho')). Get new gaskets, apply a grease film to all of them, make sure to put some trans-X onto the injector O-rings (and work it completelyunder the O-rings, and the intake surface where they go in), and your problems will be solved. I GAR-RAUN-TEEE it.

EVERYONE, who has poor TPI performance, and no codes (sometimes an EGR code, too), should do this. EVERYONE.


EDIT:
Don't worry if you don't get the cold start injector properly seated in the intake - it won't take long to find that out.