Goat - I think the wrench is called a flare-nut wrench. My fittin' was a 1/2 ". I got only a box 1/2, an open/box 12mm combo (too small), and 13mm open/box combo(too big, but). 13 did the job, but a high-load bolt would be a no-go for that[sm=nono.gif][sm=nothatway.gif][sm=signs006.gif][sm=noooo.gif] I had penetratin' lube overnight on it.

Not a hanger there, kettle, just a clamp. I'm gonna re-use it - it's a stout piece.........

 

[sm=happy046.gif][sm=happybounce.gif]and the rest of the good smileys too!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Did a dry fit with the cleaned pan, have NOT wiped the tranny case flange. Had to see how well we could get the cleaned lubed gasketed pan back up. Felt okay. Then brought it back down to take a peek - holdjer breath...

The pic is worth a kubazillion words.

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Time to re-assemble and fill.

The filter placement comment is a couple of posts ahead there...

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Finish cleanin' first...

The clamp just laughed at the solvent. All I could do was just run the nut up and backthe bolt and let it slosh with the pan bolts.

I sprayed the case holes with penetratin' lube till it ran back down, then hit the innerds and the flange with the shop vac to get the gravy and the drippins', and wiped the case flange ...

To get a few more ounces of old juice from the innerds there, pull down on the spring, and roll the actuator back and forth a few times (I'll get a pic of this edited in later)

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Get some grease on the flange, even it out by blotting, not smearing, with yer fingers. Get a THIN film in place. If you get too much, put the gasket on upside down, press down lightly all around, remove it, and put it down right side up.

If ya need any more grease on the top surface get a little more on. Spread it again by blotting with yer fingers, this time you're pressing the gasket firmly onto the pan too.

Put the pan up from the passenger side, lookin' to get the driver's side pan flange ABOVE the shifter bracket first, then swing the passenger side to the case.

Have 2 lubed bolts ready, and try to get 'em on opposite sides of the pan. Don't snug 'em yet, so ya' got some room to fish the rest of the bolts into the gasket and case hole (unless yer usin' the cork gasket like goat said, with his trick). I had the neoprene.

This should have been posted earlier...
Also, the original filter 'snout' had a bezel that stayed in the tranny orifice. Leave it there, until you put the new filter in, and if it fits snug, you're good. If it ain't snug, yer gonna have to change the bezel. You don't want the filter to drop into the bottom of the pan.

I suggest tightening with one hand, holding the top of the ratchet, NOT the handle. A leak from a loose pan is a little cheaper fix than a stripped out case hole. I wouldn't even trust a torque wrench on a non-load bearing gig like this.



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The clamp I re-used, and got a smear of anti-seize no. 13 with copper on the bolt and washer part.

 

I dumped in a bottle of Slick 50 for the tranny (you don't have to use it since you don't like it snow). The Jimmy, also with a 4L60e, hasn't gagged on it since last week's filter change.

Comes out like Jello. I dumped it in first, and then poured the new tranny fluid into the slick 50 bottle and gave it a shake, sincehalf of it wasplayin' hard to get.

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edited...