What pads are recommended for a 98. It is a strickly a daily driver? Thanks Rene'

 

My rotor manufacturer recommends these:

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...ar=&perfCode=P

Now, if the dreaded pulsating pedal rears its ugly head, you might want to consider new rotors as well. I bought these for my C5:

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...ar=&perfCode=S

But for normal street driving only, these are a bit less expensive:

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...ar=&perfCode=S

Both are far less likely to allow pad deposits to accumulate on the rotor surfaces, resulting in the "pulsating pedal" issue.

Dave

 

Hi Renes. I just went thru this decision making process. Settled on OEM Semi-Metallic pads which include the metallic sliders needed for the pads to move in the calipers. Paid abt $80 front and $70 rear and got new rotors for the front (were cut once B4 I bought the car) for $22.80. These are real GM OEM rotors. Got all this at a AC DELCO parts dealer. Thge dealer wanted over $100 for each of the pads and $130 each for the rotors so SHOP AROUND. Didn't go fot the Durastop or ceramic pads. REASON Dont STOP AS WELL AS SEMIMETALLIC . You get more brake dust with OEM pads but go get a spray bottle of brake dust remover and a brush. Ceramic pads heat up more and do DUST but the dust is lighter. While you are at it buy a $15 can of duplicor caliper paint and paint ur calipers RED withwhite CORVETTE logo. Looks like a Z06 and costs practically NOTHING. Can do this when you do the brake job. Manual says to DISCARD bolt holding on the calipers and calipers to wheels... DONT. Just get some red locktite when you replace the bolts. The large bolts are on REALLY TIGHT like 125 # but they WILL COME OFF.
Good LUCKBIGHANK

 

What about the GM (AC Delco) slotted and drilled rotors.
Anyone have a opinion bad or good on them?

I'm asking because I do have that dreaded pulsating pedal, and looking at new rotors and pads here soon. I could pick up the set front and back with pads for about $325.00.

Thanks

 

Well, if you do get them, stay away from a race track, as drilled rotors have a tendency to crack. For street driving, you should be okay,although slotted-only rotors provide more braking surface area than drilled-and-slotted.

I like to buy components that last and last. That's why I didn't mind spending many c-notes for high-quality rotors.

 

If it really is only a daily driver go with stock ones, although I would just buy them at an Auto Zone, etc. Most aftermarket pads have performance advantages, but will really "dirty" your wheels much more than stock. You don't need that slight increment of performance gain in a daily driver and you will appreciate not having to clean the wheels every other day. My Porsche has the really high performance pads (they came stock, but they will be replaced soon with milder ones, I don't drive it hard) and I spent over an hour today cleaning those damn wheels of just one weeks accum,ulation (the vette's seems to never get that dirty -- I run stock pads). I am seriously thinking of switching out the Porsche's wheels for "brake dust black" wheels, so I never have to do that again.

 

Not all drilled rotors will crack, only cheap ones. I have the GM high performanance drilled rotors (bought them through Ecklers) and they have not cracked in 12,500 miles. Not sure how they will be doing at 50,000 miles, but they handle stops from 150 mph, and they have not a trace of warping. They came stock on my Porsche and seem fine there. All these are good, non-cheap ones, of course, which is the key. If they seen cheap, they are, and are to be avoided.

 

Everything is a tradeoff, I guess. The more a rotor is drilled, the lighter it gets but the more its surface area is reduced (diminishing its braking ability). From what I've read, the C5 and C6s that are used in 24 hours of LeMans have rotors that have not been drilled at all. I think that tells you something right there! For me, the choice of slotted benefits me in two ways:

1) The dang uneven brake pad deposits ( that cause the dreaded pulsating pedal) are far less likely to occur because of the "cheese-grating" effect that the slots have on the pads and

2) Infrequent use of the brakes can lead to glazing (hard, slick surface) of the pads. The slots, for reasons mentioned above, prevent this from happening.

In addition, slotted rotors tend to keep the rotor cooler - possibly beneficial during heavy use.