this web site is awesome! I didn't know that the C meant current. if I remember correctly the only one with the C by it was the HVAC malfunction.

if the problem with my easy entry seat is just a worn down key I will be extatic. honestly, I have noticed that the key seems rather worn down. what looks like they used to be sharp points are somewhat rounded off, and the silver shiny stuff is gone from the top and bottom of the teeth. I have another key around here somewhere which I just realized I'm not 100% sure where it is. if I can locate it I'll switch my primary key and give that one a try for a while.

unfortunately I think there is more to the power seat than just that. that would explain the easy entry feature acting strange or not working sometimes, but I have some mobility problems with the seat just moving it with the switch. but if the easy entry system would work more reliably that would be nice. that's the most "tangible" problem with the car right now, and I am really eager to get it fixed.

okay, here it is. this is going to look aweful just by the volume of independent malfunctions. but here is my complete list of problems, the "points" on the 110 point GM Certified vehicle inspection, and other information as to whether I fixed it or the problem changed. this is part of a very long letter which I sent to GM to ask them to repremand this dealer or maybe even help me with the cost of some of these things, which on a certified car I don't think should be an issue at all!

1. Turn signals work intermittently (point 27?) – diagnosed to be a failure of the 4 way flasher. This issue has not been resolved.
2. Climate Control LCD has no illumination – fixed! 1/6/07
3. Belt is squeaking (point 48) – semi-resolved itself over time
4. Passenger’s maplight does not work. Bulb is fine, the socket is bad (point 26) – Verified with a voltmeter, that bulb socket is dead.
5. Driver’s maplight socket is broken, but the light still works
6. Power telescoping steering wheel does not work – update, wheel started working on its own, but randomly fails to work from time to time.
7. Power Seat does not work properly * this is the only item not reported to the dealer. Details of the various power seat malfunctions was unclear upon initial report.
a. One button on the power seat does not work. You can hear the motor, but nothing happens (both seats?) – determined to be the lateral support adjustment.
b. Easy entry system sometimes fails likely due to problems with the power seat.
c. The rearmost seat height adjustment does not work. The motor can be heard moving, but the rear of the seat does not rise or fall. The front height adjustment works.
d. Driver’s power seat switch, control module, or relay intermittently fails to work. Operator can hold the seat movement button and the seat will move. It will randomly stop while it is not at the end of its travel. The button it still held, but the seat does not move. If the switch is released, and then reactivated the seat starts working again. This happens a couple times a day on average, and may be connected to problems with the easy entry system.
8. Possibly serious problem with the ABS system – Diagnosed to be a bad ECBM by Hall. Hall refused to repair.
9. Possibly serious problem with the traction control system (point 10) – Diagnosed to be a bad ECBM by Hall. Hall refused to repair.
10. Possible serious problem to the tire pressure monitoring system. System reported a low tire one day for several seconds, then display returned to normal. – Diagnosed to be a bad ECBM by Hall. Hall refused to repair.
11. Suspension makes loud squeaking sounds on every semi-major bump. – this has been getting better as time goes by.
12. Vehicle leaks in rain, severely on the driver’s side! Wiring is getting wet – resolved, this was due to a clogged drain under the cowling below where the driver’s side wiper enters.
13. Wrong oil put in the engine (point 97) – fixed, oil changed to Mobil1 on 1/13/07
14. Coolant was not topped of all the way, or cap left untightened (point 100) – fixed by Hall during vehicle detailing.

okay that's better. when I copied it in I had formatting and even color from the Word doc I copied, then I clicked the post button and it all lost its formatting. oh well, fixed so you can read it.

 

OK, I think I can help you with some of your problems today.

The Squeaks seem like a good place to start.

The squeaks are annoying, this is what Leaftye told us to do. (It works great)

For the best list ever about the C5, check out this link by Leafteye

Roof noises
If you buy a coupe with a removable roof, you can expect wind noise and some creaking. The wind noise will never totally go away, but if there's creaking, you can eliminate that by thinly applying dielectric silicone grease to the weather-stripping. It also prevents cracking, so do this to all weather-stripping, on any car.

Hood rattles
During cold weather the rubber hood stops can also rub and rattle against the hood. Adjust and lubricate the rubber stops so when you pull the corner of the hood up, it doesn’t pull up, but the hood still closes.

Drivetrain rattling
The valvetrain makes a significant amount of noise at idle. It may sound like sewing machine. Converting the valve rockers to true shaft-mounted adjustable roller rockers with may help eliminate the valvetrain noise if adjusted properly. Installing a big cam and stiffer valve springs will make the noise louder.

On manual transmission cars (M6 or M12), the transmission sounds like it is rattling when leaving the line. It is normal. It is the clutch throwout bearing rattling around. Sometimes you'll hear a horrible rattle if you shut off the engine. If you press the clutch pedal in while shutting off the car, you won't hear it.

Suspension squeaking
In cold weather you may hear the suspension creak when you go over speed bumps. To fix this, clean (optional) and lubricate the sway bar bushings. The adjustable metal sway bar end links on Hotchkis and T1 bars can also create loud clicking sounds. Most adjustable end links are quiet initially, but wear out and get noisy over time. Greasing and protecting the end links from dirt may prevent wear.

Interior rattles
The visors may rattle when they are put up, but if you flip them down, the rattle goes away. Squeezing the mirror lid down seems to take care of it. Try glueing a piece of felt or velcro between the mirror and lid to see if that fixes it. Caravaggio also makes replacement leather visors, but they go for $400.

The stereo is Bose, and to go along with the historically crappy build quality of Bose products, Bose has graced the Corvette with Bose emblems on the door speaker covers that rattle when you play music with bass. A Bose system doesn't exist that puts out good bass, but the system still manages to rattle the emblems when playing Country, Hip Hop, or Techno at moderate volumes. Check this problem by having a passenger and yourself putting a finger on the emblems with music playing. Glue the emblems down to fix it.

If the roof isn't tightened down enough, it will rattle. There are some adjustment screws in the roof to make this adjustment

Belt Chirping
During cold weather, the belt can chirp. Goodyear Gatorback belts from AutoZone don’t chirp.

 

Did they ever tell you the source of this problem? I'm having a similar issue.

 

Can you be alittle more specific? I know the cause and solution to just about every problem I've had, just let me know what you are having difficulties with and I'll let you know what fixed mine.

 

I had the exact same error messages on my vette. After several trips to the dealer to check the codes the problem was totally solved by replacing the ebcm. I have not had any problems since and don't recall it being a very expensive part - couple hundred dollars or so, not the thousands as mentioned (no labor included). After you solve these issues you are having you will truly love your corvette. Don't get to discouraged, have fun with it.
Grant

 

Yes, if you are referring to the traction control, ABS, and active handling messages the problem is almost certainly a bad EBCM or EBCTM (depending on whether or not your car has traction control)

The price of this part can vary and it can be reasonable, or very expensive whether or not you pay for labor. the good news is its pretty easy to replace yourself. just so you don't feel bad, you aren't alone:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...th+EBCM+issues

hundreds of other vette owners have gone through the same thing.

for replacement I recommend you contact Gene at www.gmpartshouse.com he has a much better price on the EBCM or EBCTM than your local dealer, and he can help you figure out exactly what you need. last time I looked I think he had it for ~$350

if you replace it yourself its common enough that I bet you can find instructions online if you look for how to find it and remove/reinstall.

if you want to investigate a cheaper alternative, go to http://www.absfixer.com they know exactly what the problem is and willfix your existing EBCM, cost is like $150 or so. you have to remove it and send it to them, they fix it and overnight it back. you CAN drive your car without it though, so you aren't taken out of commission completely.

good luck!