Y: I have been running twin turbos with 5# and 8# (selectable by dash switch) gates for 11 months in my daily driver with no overheating issues.

 

what turbo system did u use bud?

 

STS, You can email me for specific gripes and smiles.

 

what about a kenny bell twin screw supercharger?

 

It will have all the advantages of the Magnusen but outperform it in low end torque and high end HP (and it costs quite a bit more). Remember: a Magnusen has enough boost to blow a stock engine apart in minutes, so Kenny Bell is only an option if you are going to build a stronger engine (I recommend an iron block).

 

i called kenny bell and the only reason its more expensive is because it comes with the hood... so i think im gonna go kenny bell with a mild tune ill let u know how it all works out ... thanks for the help guys.

 

ohh if i was interested in building the motor what all should i do and where sould i go to find these things?

 

First, as to the motor, if it were me I would leave it alone for now: you have some preliminaries to do and a SCr and all to add which will be fun and give a hoot more power. Down the road then, you can build up a motor and add an extra 200-300 HP on top of what the SCr and stock engine gives.

first, I would do the following prior to putting on the SCr.
1) Add a double-core radiator with integral engine oil cooler. Not sure where you find it (you'll have to do some homework), but they are available (i had one) and it is important because: you will exceed or reach the limit of the stock radiator very soon with these mods (more power==> more cooling need) and the double core radiato0r takes just a bit more space than the stock::it is much much better to get it in there now before you add new equipment brakets, move things around, put new induction plumbing etc. so that you can do that and fuss and fit that to the radiator let it have its needed realestate first, then work the others around it.
2) Long tube headers. 1 7/8 diameter, with oversize cats. they add power, they help get all that extra exhaust the cylinders, and theyactually lower stress and heat on the cylinders, all good.
3) Move the battery to the trunk (Lingenfelter has a kit worth getting make sure they send the cables as part of the kit, they sometimes forget). The SCrweighs about an extra 100 lbs and moving the battery tot he trunk essentially keeps theF/R balance at stock percentages.
4) Mini-tub kit (also Lingenfelter) lets you run up to 345 section tires on the rear, which you will need.

Then I would do the SCR. Only advice there ithat won't come with the kit is most screw SCR kits have you cut the wires leading to the ppassenger's side of the dirve by wire throttle assembly, and splice in an extra 12 to 20 inches of length (depending on kit) to route around the SCr and its plumbing. Do not use crimp connectors here. Solder and heat shrink on new insulation (trust me, intermitant resistance changes in crimp on connectors in these wires will put the engine computer into limp mode).
Limit boost to where you have only about 475 RWHP. Over 500 and you will blow upthe engine - strangely, this often is not a failure of rods and crank, but you literally blow the block apart (split a cylinder wall and the block - Ugh).

After you get all this sorted out, get used to doing 11 second quarters, and get jaded with around 550-565 flywheel HP, then look at building up an engine. Here, there is just a lot of reserach to do. I don't recommend trying to build the engine yourself unless y ou have a lot of experience. I had the 427 C5R block LS engine for my 'vette built by Charlie Hempfield (built the '96 Daytona winner, other great winners), and we bought the iron short block 408 in the Camaro, which is bulletproof and cheap ($4500), from Horsepower Engineering in HOuston. The iron block (its just a chevy LS series truck block is all) weighs 90 lbs more than alum, but it won't come apart under heavy boost and it holds held bolts better so you don't blow head gaskets.
Or you can buy a complete engine, various grades and strengths and displacements, from any of numerous companies (Lingefelter, SLP, Horsepower Engineering, MTI, etc.) and drop it in.

Good luck

 

thanks for all the info been a big help