traction control & ABS Light pop up
#1
traction control & ABS Light pop up
Can anyone help me? trying to find out. Why is my traction controll light & ABS come on; sometime, when i first crank my car. Sometime it come on and other day it does not? does anyone having the same problem?
#3
i had the same thing happinging to mine. Intermitantly it would come on, and the next time i started it, gone. I changed the rearend fluid and it hasn't come on since. I know the oil was pretty worn, so i think it was trowin a sensor. I would start there, worked for me
#4
Have you looked at the codes? Hopefully, it's not the dreaded EBCM failure. However, since it is intermittant, I suspect that a ground wire is loose.
My warning lights came on, permanently, so I sent my EBCM to ABS fixer and for $150, they fixed the problem and sent back my module. I made a full removal procedure, so let me know if you need the link.
My warning lights came on, permanently, so I sent my EBCM to ABS fixer and for $150, they fixed the problem and sent back my module. I made a full removal procedure, so let me know if you need the link.
#5
Have you looked at the codes? Hopefully, it's not the dreaded EBCM failure. However, since it is intermittant, I suspect that a ground wire is loose.
My warning lights came on, permanently, so I sent my EBCM to ABS fixer and for $150, they fixed the problem and sent back my module. I made a full removal procedure, so let me know if you need the link.
My warning lights came on, permanently, so I sent my EBCM to ABS fixer and for $150, they fixed the problem and sent back my module. I made a full removal procedure, so let me know if you need the link.
#6
I had the intermitant start up problem like others report (it seems to occur a lot) even when my car was stock and new, but that is basically benign. What you report is pretty scary if it happens like that on the highway.
I recall your car is highly modified. I had some of these issues with mine, although not nearly as severe, and I've heard of other highly modified cars with similar problems. I nuked my problems by doing all of the following at one time, because I just didn't want to keep trying one thing after another for weeks on end until I found the problem. Whatever the problem was, one or more of these fixed it:
1 - replaced all the sensors for the system -- no diagnostics that any was bad but I did it anyway.
2 - with all the underhood mods, I had a lot of crimp on connectors in the throttle and various control wiring underhood and so forth, as had moved a lot of wires to rearrange things. I replaced every crimp on connector under hood and in wiring replaced or moved at the rear (when i tubbed the rear wheel wells, etc.) with soldered joints. (Note: stability control system problems do occur if the wiring to the throttle body has been fiddled with or is loose, and crimp on connectors generally do give problems here, they do not hold tightly enough and resistance varies and the stability system senses that as a problem and reacts).
3 - I had the programming of the ECM checked by a real pro (Creech at Carolina Auto Masters) and they made some changes to something associated with throttle closure, not sure what -- its been three years
4 - I was running some European 335x18 tires on the rear that were about an inch greater on rolling diameter from stock. Hard to believe this was the problem but I switched to some BFG 345 x 18 drag radials that were within .1 inch of the right rolling diameter.
5- removed 100 lbs (two bags of sand) I carried in the rear for extra traction.
The problem never came back, so something of this, or just taking things apart and putting them back together, solved the problem.
I've also heard anecdotally that the 50-70 HP "oscillations" you sometimes get in GM cars with veryt high doses of NOS, because of the ECM hunting back and forth for the best tune in closed and open mode, (happens particularly in dry systems over 250 HP), can trigger the stability control. Never actually seen this myself.
I recall your car is highly modified. I had some of these issues with mine, although not nearly as severe, and I've heard of other highly modified cars with similar problems. I nuked my problems by doing all of the following at one time, because I just didn't want to keep trying one thing after another for weeks on end until I found the problem. Whatever the problem was, one or more of these fixed it:
1 - replaced all the sensors for the system -- no diagnostics that any was bad but I did it anyway.
2 - with all the underhood mods, I had a lot of crimp on connectors in the throttle and various control wiring underhood and so forth, as had moved a lot of wires to rearrange things. I replaced every crimp on connector under hood and in wiring replaced or moved at the rear (when i tubbed the rear wheel wells, etc.) with soldered joints. (Note: stability control system problems do occur if the wiring to the throttle body has been fiddled with or is loose, and crimp on connectors generally do give problems here, they do not hold tightly enough and resistance varies and the stability system senses that as a problem and reacts).
3 - I had the programming of the ECM checked by a real pro (Creech at Carolina Auto Masters) and they made some changes to something associated with throttle closure, not sure what -- its been three years
4 - I was running some European 335x18 tires on the rear that were about an inch greater on rolling diameter from stock. Hard to believe this was the problem but I switched to some BFG 345 x 18 drag radials that were within .1 inch of the right rolling diameter.
5- removed 100 lbs (two bags of sand) I carried in the rear for extra traction.
The problem never came back, so something of this, or just taking things apart and putting them back together, solved the problem.
I've also heard anecdotally that the 50-70 HP "oscillations" you sometimes get in GM cars with veryt high doses of NOS, because of the ECM hunting back and forth for the best tune in closed and open mode, (happens particularly in dry systems over 250 HP), can trigger the stability control. Never actually seen this myself.
Last edited by Lee Willis; 03-04-2009 at 03:45 PM.
#7
my honest but not cheep local mechanic just replaced the unit, but it still cost about $1800, ouch!
Don't ignore the intermittent problem , even if it goes away as mine did for about a year.
#8
Here's a link to the procedure for replacing the EBCM. It takes approx. 20 minutes to remove.
http://www.conceptualpolymer.com/Ele...l%20Module.pdf
Dave
http://www.conceptualpolymer.com/Ele...l%20Module.pdf
Dave
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