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Automatic Transmission Position switch

  #1  
Old 07-12-2018, 03:19 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 2
Angry Automatic Transmission Position switch

91 automatic -
Need help in setting the transmission position switch
 
  #2  
Old 07-12-2018, 04:20 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 2
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I'm new here so wasn't sure what to write. I have a 91 Automatic with 205000 miles. I'm the DIY type of guy and this is how I learn and share my experience with C4 owners but never experienced this kind of issue before. I'm sure someone here has.

Anyway, Last week my shift cable broke. This is the story. I was getting a no crank, no start so I thought it was my ignition switch of which has given me issues in the past. I've replaced my ignition switch a good couple of time. Well anyway, I went to Chevy and purchased a new switch and a new key thinking that was my problem. Well, I removed the steering wheel and didn't see anything wrong with the switch. My experience with the ignition switch is that the 2 little wires would break. Not the case this time. So I figured it was in the shifter. I put the shift in neutral and it started. Great. Got home and the next morning got in the car to start it and it started right up. Threw it into reverse to back up and my shift went from park to having nothing. While starting it I smelt something burning. Turned the car off and opened the hood and didn't see anything strange. Got back in to start the car and smelt burning again. Turned the car off and the burning smell was coming from the shift. I removed the shift plate and noticed smoke coming from under the shift plate and noticed that the shift cable broke at the shift. When It broke it spliced into 2 wires going to the transmission position switch ( the big yellow and the purple wires had the protective insulation off - I guess by the cable braking and sliding towards those wires. I did repair the wires. Before this happen in order to start the car I would have to move the shift between neutral and reverse to get it to start. This was all within 24 hours.

So I went and got a used shift cable and replaced it. Still, crank no start and I would have to move the shift between neutral and reverse to get it cranking and still no start. Ordered a used neutral safety switch. When I installed the switch I put the shift in neutral and buttoned up the 2 nuts on the switch. Now it cranks in park - but still no start. moved it to neutral and crank no start. I noticed that when I put the shift in the reverse and back into park I would hear the click indicating it's in park. While doing that I noticed that the shift wasn't all the way up. It would have about 1/8th of play. Got under the car and moved the transmission lever forward. Still, crank no start. Now, this is what I started to do even tho I felt it wasn't necessary because before the cable broke the car was running perfectly and honestly wasn't any reason to check the following. But I did anyway.


1- Checked for power at the distributor. Got power. check for spark - got a spark
2- check injectors with noid lite - all injectors lit up while cranking the motor indicating a pulse
3- fuel pressure at the rail - the pressure was about 35 -40 psi while cranking.
4- Got oil pressure
5- I hear the fuel pump coming on
6- changed out the ignition modular - same crank no start
7- Changed out spark plug thinking I fouled them out - still crank no start
8- wires look ok. Like I mentioned earlier car was running perfectly before this happened.
9- battery voltage - 12.45 v
10-removed the starter for test and it tested good.
11- sprayed starter fluid in the throttle body, crank no start
12 - using OBD1 no codes.
13 - using a paper clip to connect A and G on the ALDL to try and bring up codes for the ccm on the LCD. Unfortunately, my LCD was to bad that I could barely read anything on the screen. Ordering new LCD Film. But I can make out some numbers. When I connect A & G I get a code 112 at the bottom of the LCD. Then I can barely read the # 4 on the top left corner of the LCD and a few seconds later I see 3 _ _ _ lines at the bottom of the LCD. After that, it looks like the # 10 on the top left and no lines. I know the lines at the bottom indicate no issues with that code. Then I would press the ENG MET ON THE TRIP MONITOR once and after that, I would press the TRIP OOO and noticed it would go to other numbers. But remember as I mentioned earlier I can barely read the LCD so I stopped there until I get the LCD film.

Removed The Knee plate to see if it was something with the other rod or cable that is on the left of the shift cable by the shift. This area is new to me. Didn't see anything wrong. Just a visual check. Been chasing this for a week now and no luck. Some say the CCM some say not the CCM. This is why I don't bring my car to a mechanic or the stealership. So I am hoping I can get some really good advice or suggestions here. TIA
 

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