Having never completely color sanded a vehicle I don't consider myself an expert (In anything for that matter) However I just bought a black 87 Convertible with a less than perfect paint. The car has been recently painted, but not color sanded or clear coated.

Thinking this job can't be too difficult I assembled all the "stuff" I thought necessary and attacked the left front fender three days ago.
First I washed the car and then clay treated the side I was going to start on. Using the old saying, "fools rush in where idiots fear to go", I put three hours on the side section of the fender. I was afraid of burning through and wasn't agressive enough. The results were a little less than perfect-sand marks showing through, missed places etc. However a few pain pills later the fender looked a little better.

This morning I started in the driver's door and started with 1000 wet or dry, then 1500, then 2000 and finally 2500. I then tried Ardex 2500 polish compound and the results were acceptible. Actually I'm kind of proud of myself. If the rest of this old car turns out as well as the door I'll be very satisfied. I saved the $350.00 the paint show wanted and only spent $600.00 for "stuff"

 

Hey Doc. I've always had decent luck starting with 800 grit wet on the flat areas just to take off any imperfections.. I then go to 1000, 1500 and finish with 2000. The 1500/2000 papers are basically just used to take out the swirl marks from the grit before them. I then use a polishing compound made by 3M (about $30 for a quart) with a foam pad and electric buffer. That's how I sand/polish the clearcoat. I use 400 (sometimes 600 if the color laid out nice and flat) to prep the color for the clear.

The only time I've accidently burned through was on an edge while doing a motorcycle fender. With 1000 grit it's actually a lot harder to go through a flat area than you'd think. I always use bare hands (no pads or blocks) so I can feel when that area's done. Lots of water (I keep a pump sprayer handy) and keep the paper clean.

 

I know this is an old Forum, but Im getting ready to start sanding down my 86 vette after I finish all the mech stuff. Ive down basic body work with metal cars, but fiberglass is all new to me. My paint now looks like a lepor it looks like plastic shrink wrap is coming off in some areas, Im guessing thats the clear coat. Anywho my question is after I sand it all down do I have to get it re-clearcoated or will it be ok until I can afford a good paint job? see the pic

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I have seen this on so many cars, I've decided NOT to clear coat mine. After all, paint jobs have looked great for years, that don't have clear coat.

 

So do you think wet sanding it with a very fine paper on a DA sander will improve upon its apperance?

 

I like those tips of yours spanners. What kind are they. Back to topic. Wow your car def. needs a new paintjob. Are you going to strip it down to the bare fiberglass and rework it up to the clear coat or what?

 

Those are Magna LT style tips, Black chrome, I thought they were cool too, I dont know, if I can just sand the clearcoat off of it, and have a dull black, I would be happy with that for awhile, until I can get her a nice job, what do you guys think?

 

To get the proper finish, first you have get the body work straight, then a good quality filler primer. Sand the filler with 400 to 600 grit paper. Then, after 24 hours, apply the base coat, 3 coats. The first coat is just a thin dusting coat. Then, within 12 hours you have to apply the clear so it can bond with the color. The clear is the one you have to be kinda persnickity with ( I put on 4 coats because you will sand off 2 in color sanding) and use a good quality siphon feed HVLP gun with about a 1.3 mm tip with about 15 lbs of pressure. I would practice spraying fisrt to get the hang of the gun. After the body work is straight and you have the taping done, a weekend would suffice to get the painting done. Just make sure to apply the clear no later than 12 hours after the color or you will have problems. [8D] Mine looks just like yours LOL.



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