I am getting ready to replace the rear control arm bushings. I have gotten everything apart and just can't get the bolts out. They are rusted in good. I was going to try some brake fluid, wd40, etc. If I do have to cut anyone have tips on how to do this the easiest way.

I also am wondering how that tool works. I bought the flaring tool for the bushings but not sure how to use it.

Thanks
B

 

Are you trying to remove the 'Strut Rods' if so go to www.riksvet.com and look at part sus267 or get a big hammer and an extra nut and bang away untill the shock mount comes loose. PG

 

I don't think it's the strut rods. I'm talking about the bolt that goes through the TA bushings and the point where the TA mounts to the body of the car. If that rod is called the strut rod then yes, but I thought they were just calledthe TA bolts. The tool I can't figure out how to use it this one.

 

The original bushing is 2 piece deal. The bushing and the inner sleave that your bolt is rusted to. Once you get the trailing arm out you will see that the inner sleave is peened over to hold the bushing together. If I remember correctlly the new bushing sleave will have one end allready flared out.To get the old one out grind the flare off or drill it out. Then press the new bushing in the arm and assemble it in the tool and bolt the two halves together to compress the bushing and washer and then put the flare on the other end by either hitting the tool with a hammer or use a press. Seems like a half *** set up but thats how it was. ( the strut rods are the arms that you adjust the camber with)

 

Hi bruiserman, now I got it, your trying to get the front trailing arm bolt out, there is no room in there! I used a hacksaw blade with one end taped up with duck tape after I pulled a few of the rusted shims out, took me forever.A sawzall will make it a lot easier. Book says keep track of how many on each side. Good luck doing that with the amount of rust on the original ones. Just pull out as many shims as you can and cut the bolt on each side and the trailing will come out.
Since it was so much work to got that bolt out and get the trailing arms off, I took the TA to Corvette Etc and had them change the inner and outer bearings and parking brake parts with stainless steel.
They also installed the new front bushings and I put it back together with new stainless steel shims and then went back to get an alingment after I put it back together.
Not an easy job but well worth the trouble since it will be good for the next 10 years. PG.

 

I got to do the same thing you hav done, but not juts yet. HOW AND WHEN DID YOU NOTICE A PROBLEM?What do i need to look/hear for if there is a problem? Now that you are done, Isn't it better to buy the all assembly and replace it than rebuilding the old one?

 

The first set I did was like PG suggested w/ the hacksaw blade. The next one I did w/ a borrowed air powered saw. Much easier.

 

I used a SAWZALL, I installed polyurethane bushings so I didn't need to flare the inner steel tube.

 

I replaced my TA's last winter, best thing I ever did. Had them rebuilt at Bair's corvette http://bairs.com/. they came back in two weeks like new, they replace all bearings and seals, new SS e-brake. A sawzall is the only way to get these little buggers out, have patience cause the bolts are hardened. replace alignment shims with new SS shims.I replaced half shafts, allbrake componants, all bushings. rides like new now. It's a big job but worth it

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