If you have a small block, you can disconnect the idler arm from the frame which will allow you to drop the drag link down far enough that you can remove the oil pan.

While I'm not a believer in using chemistry to solve mechanical problems, I have had some success using one particular leak stopping product. I don't remember the name of it but it comes in three different size cans for four, six, or eight cylinder engines. My experience with it comes from trying to keep old used cars on the road when my kids were in high school.

When I was reassembling my small block, I remember seeing a suggestion that you do not line up the ends in the rear main seal with the oil pan gasket surface. Not sure exactly how you could do that with the crank in the block.

 

I have never been a big fan of additives, but I have seen them help sometimes. They are a lot like bandaids not really fixing the problem just making it look a bit better. It's a good time to deal with the oil pump if it has issues with the pan off. Found a picture of a guy installing a main seal and staggering the seal ends. I have done it this way.

 

IIRC, It was also suggested that you put a small dab of sealant on each end of the new rear main seal.

 

Thank you..I think that I will pass on the Additives and go on ahead with the repair.

 

Good Choice.