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How hard/rough should you have to pull and pry to separate the Block from the Bell Housing/Transmission? Should it just ease out of the trani with the fly wheel and clutch attached? Do you have to remove slave cylinder and the clutch fork?

I have all the bell housing bolts out, had to unhook the Tani to Dif beam to lower Trani to get top bell housing bolts out, that was fun!

I have the motor mount bolts out and when I lift engine it clears motor mounts. Do you have to remove the mount brackets attached to the block?

I can stick a screw driver between the block and bell housing but when I pull it out they close together.

I have the engine hoist on the side of the car, I am trying to cheat and not remove the hood. Is this possible?

I really appreciate some help here....

Thanks
Ken

 

First...I've never removedthe engine from a C4 Corvette. I have removed 235,327,350,383(stroker),396,and 427s from other Chevy products though including a 327-350 changeover in a 68 Corvette.
Whenever I've removed any engine I've always detached everything behind the flywheel. It makes the package a little smaller for one thing. I don't know about the clutch and linkages to shifter. It seems a good way to bend or break something when you start hoisting.
Every Chevy engine I've seen had a couple guide pins to ensure the tranny was properly positioned to accept bolts. These pins are about 1/2" long as I recall. The engine needs to come forward that far to completely "let go" of the transmission. Your sideways approach with your hoist might cause you problems here. When the engine does clear these pins the tranny will likely drop some. There's a lot of weight between these two components and if anything swings body parts and vehicle parts will suffer if they're in the way.
I've wondered how difficult the removal of my engine would be considering how it's tucked in. Once you get that engine dangling over the car, will you be able raise it high enough to clear the fender with the oil pan without hitting the hood? Personally, I'd clear a good path before lifted all that weight over fiberglass.
Hope some of this helps....Good Luck NineBall

 

Thanks for the input...
When I went out this morning I realized while tugging on the engine I had separated the driveshaft from the trani. So the decision was made for me. However, what followed was certainly and eventful day as as the trani slipped off the driveshaft beam and dropped. Fortuntately it hit a jack stand that the tail didn't hit the floor.
Now it is off to the machine shop to be refreshed, however, having a hard time wether to just go with a hot cam and ported heads and intake or actually covert it to a 383.
I hear you don't gain much HP but get wicked torque.
Any coments on the 350 vs 383 delema would be apprecitated.
ken

 

OMG! you MUST remove your hood from car. its only a few bolts but you need help of a friend cause they are heavy, dont forget to unplug your headlites too cause they stay in the hood, its really not much trouble to reinstall when you are done if you mark around the hinges with a pen or make reference marks like a line thatgoes acrossthe hood and hinge so you can line back up when you reinstall hood. there isnt way you can pull the motor without taking off the hood. you may also find it easier to pull both the motor and tranny as one unit then separate them after you have them out. im currently working on my 90 now and it just made sense to pull both instead of fighting with it trying to pull only motor . when i am done everything will be clean and painted and going back in as 1 unit . this way you arent under car trying to stab the tranny getting crap in your eyes. trannys get a little heavy trying to lift them up to reinstall. good luck with your project! thats just my 2cents hope it helps you out