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Been almost a year but it finally RUNS.... 79 year old me had some health setbacks but back up and running along with the C4. Bought this last February from the original couple that bought it new in 1988. It looked great and with only 15.000 miles and kept in a heated garage for almost 40 years- it should have.
SO I oiled up the cylinders. changed the plugs, let it sit and then turned by hand after it's five year nap, I drained the foul smelling gas put in some fresh and prepared to start the beast to endear my wife and startle the neighbors!!!!!
Nothing, NADA, ZIPPO... then I got out the bore scope to peek at the tank...... YIKES... Fuel pump in twisted rusted pieces on floor of fuel tank.... a tank that looked pristine from the outside......
I think my sellers might have forgotten about a few years of storage. One new Tank assy complete with everything and a second new battery it fired to life..... on 6 cylinders. My Chevy knowledge is extensive PRE 1975 took me a while to unravel the mystery of the TPI.... but new injectors and the internet saves the day.... it literally runs like a 15k engine now. To get it on the road it was time for tires...the originals dry rotted off the rims.. So 4 new Azenis and four new calipers...and some Powerstop Rotors and pads and it stops....WELL !!!!!! Drove it about 25 miles last night and No Creaks no Squeaks and drives like a dream.... Not supercar power but plenty for any road use.
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I am not sure how I made out on this deal but since I am going to keep it I guess it doesn't matter.
I've in this for about 10 grand if I don't count my labor, if that's too much don't tell me.
The Blazer has an old school 283 running the GM TB... not everyone's dream car but I like the lines.
Now I have to find a Camaro and an Impala SS to be the local late eighties and early 90's Chevrolet KIng
I have a couple of small problems with the C4 But will ask for advice in my next post-
One problem I would like to ask about is the cold start injector system. It's getting chilly here on the Cape.
I see how the cold start injector works but there don't appear to b many options to buy parts. I read in an abbreviated post someone suggest
I could run a one year later PROM CHIP(1989) in my 88 and it would have the ability to fatten up the spray on all 8 of the injectors just by removing the cold start and plugging the two sides
of the intake manifold. Will that really work, is that all there is to it?
My other main problem is i have MANUAL heating controls. The bottom slide lever is set for some slight heat and there is some heat working its way out, minimal. The slide bar is stuck SOLID.
AND I need to know if its pushing a cable or a lever? Lots of information on the automatic systems but scarce on the manual ones.The top row of buttons works fine and switches from Floor to Vent to Defrost etc with ease.
I see no water control valve in the circuit so I assume the bottom lever opens a plenum door. Easy way to fix or at least turn on heat for winter ?
I'm not familiar with that cold start system, I did read that forum and It does sound like it could work. Have you checked that injector or switch for being plugged or shorted out? As for your heater, control cables can get stiff with time with old grease and maybe rust. It is possible the temp control door in the heater is seized from rust or maybe little critters that built a home in there. I'm not positive but I think you can access the heater box and linkage from behind the glove box on the passenger side. you might check YouTube sometimes they are helpful.
Welcome to the forum. YouTube is a good resource to learn about these kinds of problems. Not sure if they're available for C4s but the C3s had Assembly Manuals available in the aftermarket. A Factory Service Manual is another option to learn how these systems work.
Not sure how the C4 manual systems worked but GM typically used a lever operated Bowden cable which moved the door in the ductwork to modulate the temperature.
Definitely a cable operated blend door.
I am 95 % sure there are critter remains blocking the swing of the blend door.
I see the blower motor is fairly easy to remove does anyone know if there is a way to back vac the debris from that area or does the heater core block all access to the blend door ?
Or would it be possible to cut an access hole in the front casing for vacumning and clean out... and then just fabricate a neat patch.
Either of those seems preferable to 10-12 hours taking it all apart.
Thanks
Mike B
UOTE=73shark;82413]Welcome to the forum. YouTube is a good resource to learn about these kinds of problems. Not sure if they're available for C4s but the C3s had Assembly Manuals available in the aftermarket. A Factory Service Manual is another option to learn how these systems work.
Not sure how the C4 manual systems worked but GM typically used a lever operated Bowden cable which moved the door in the ductwork to modulate the temperature.[/QUOTE]
The access hole behind the blend door might work. I would check the blend door with the cable linkage off first to see how much resistance is on the blend door itself. A hole saw would make a good hole 1" or 1 1/4in. I don't think there is a easy access to the blend door.