How hard is it to replace the motor for power windows? I have a 1992 C4 and the drivers side has quit. Passenger side works butbutton for drivers side has stopped.Would it make any noise when you tried to roll it downif switch was good and themotor bad? Any electrical wizards out there? I'm pretty challenged in that area. Thanks

 

Does the motor make a noise when you push the switch? If not I would say it mite be a corroded connection at the switch. That happened to me awhile back and it was an easy fix. Take the panel off and unplug the switch and clean the terminals with some really fine sand paper. I would try that first. If the motor is bad its not to hard to replace, just follow instructions in manual if you have one.

 

And If the motor does make a clicking noise than it may just be locked up. If so it can be freed up by lightly tapping on it with a hammer or handle of a large screwdriver while working the switch. My '87 has done it twice now. Good luck with it. Cheers

 

[/size]Hey Thunder,[/font]
I found this on a message board. Just did this on my son's S10. It was a lot easier than this. This guy had the big clock spring flying across the garage. This is very dangerous, and like running with scissors, can put your eye out. The trick with the big clock springis pretty simple, if it is the same as the S10. Before you drill out the rivets that hold the motor assemblyto the regulator, you drill a 1/4 inch hole through the arm and a flat place on the regulator. Then you put a 1/4 inch bolt through the two parts and nut it. This keeps the thing from flying apart while you remove the old motor assemblyand install the new one. Remember to remove the bolt before you reinstall the motor in the door. I just used steel pop rivets to hold the motor onto the regulator. Also,the motors cost less than $90 now. You can even by rebuilt ones if you dare.[/color]

Replacing the Power Window Motor in a 1993 C4
[color=#800000]Date Published: [/size][/size]2001-06-15

Tools and materials required: Socket wrenches, ? drive, SAE and metric sockets, Phillips and straight bladed screwdrivers, flashlight, needle-nose pliers, torx screwdrivers, electric drill and bits, 3/8 X 1 inch rivets or ?-20 X 1 inch stainless steel nuts and bolts, grease, Loctite, RTV silicone, replacement motor from Ecklers ($90 with S & H), 12 volt test light, electrical jumper leads, battery charger capable of 6 amps output, duct tape, and of course the shop manual. Total time to actually replace the motor is approximately 5 hours the first time it is done.
Testing for a defective motor: There is a detailed troubleshooting procedure in the service manual and I will not cover it in this procedure, but will add a few tips. Since it is a time consuming process to disassemble the door to get at the motor, it is best to eliminate all other possibilities before replacing the motor. Remember that when the manual refers to right hand or left hand side of the car it is as you are sitting in the car. In other words, an inoperative right hand window would be the passenger window. This is especially important when ordering a motor as the right and left motors carry a different part number.
[size=2]Using the shop manual and a 12 volt test light determine if 12 volt power is at least getting to the window switch and the wires going to the window motor. The switch can be pried out of the door using a large flat-bladed screwdriver. It is important to use a light rather then a voltmeter. The voltmeter can show a voltage, but due to a poor connection it will not pass current and therefore operate the motor. If the light operates you have power up to that point. I wasn't sure where to get a good ground connection for one side of the test light so I ran a lead out to the engine compartment and connected it to some metal on the engine.
I determined from the wiring diagram in the manual which two wires went directly to the motor. I disconnected the two connectors going to the window switch so I would not blow any circuits in the car. I momentarily connected the battery charger directly across the wires going to the motor. When the window still didn't move I proceeded to take the door apart. As a note, I found a mistake in the color code of the wires in my shop manual compared to the actual color of the wires going to the motor. I didn't determine this until I had the door apart.
Disassembling the door: Taking the door apart and removing the window regulator took me about one hour. Start by disconnecting the negative terminal from the battery to protect the wiring. Remove the door trim panel as described in the manual. There are sheet metal screws located along the bottom edge of the door carpeting, in the door recess where you put your fingers to close the door, and several hidden screws. The hidden screws are located in the following places: One is behind the slide that locks the door. The door slide I'm referring to is under the inside door handle. One screw is located inside the door and access is gained by removing the window switch. Disconnect the two wiring connectors from the switch and lay it aside. Using a flashlight locate the screw now visible through the hole where the switch was removed. If memory serves me correctly, the screw is about 1.5 inches long and is the only one this size in the door. I used a small plastic bucket to place all the small parts I removed in the process. There is also one or two screws behind the courtesy lamp bezel. The bezel is pried out from the top. Carefully remove the bezel so as to not break it or the two lamps mounted inside it.
[size=2]The manual says to lower the window to remove the trim panel. I suppose this is okay, but cannot be accomplished when the window doesn't work! Carefully remove the trim panel from the door. If it does not remove easily , check to see if you have overlooked a mounting screw.
[size=2]Behind the trim panel is a water deflector. This is really nothing more then a sheet of dense foam rubber. Use care when removing it as it could be easily torn. It will be necessary to remove 4-6 plastic clips that hold the wiring harness in place that run along the door. I used needle-nose pliers to pry the plastic clips out of the door. The water deflector is held onto the door with double-sided tape. Lay the water deflector aside.
You can now see inside the door and see the window motor and regulator mechanism. It was at this point that I discovered the wiring color coding error. I again tested the motor using the battery charger, as I could see the color of the wires going to the motor. Since the window still didn't move, I next removed the metal accessory mounting plate. This is a large piece of sheet metal almost the size of the door that various items are mounted onto. You have to reach behind the accessory mounting plate and disconnect the rods that connect the inside locking mechanism and also the inside door handle. These rods are held in place by either a plastic or metal clip. Use care that you don't break the mounting clips or the rods can fall off of their respective place after you re-assemble the door. It was only necessary to disconnect one end of each rod tin order to remove the accessory mounting plate. Remove all the screws or bolts that hold the accessory mounting plate to the door. You have to twist the mounting plate inside the door to remove it. Once the mounting plate is out of the door you have access to the window and window regulator.
[font="arial, helvetica, sans-serif"][size=2]Removing the window regulator: The manual recommends to mark the location of everything you remove from this point on to aid in aligning the window when putting everything back together. Remove the window stabilizer pads. Remove the 3 nuts that hold the window to the regulator. Again this is best done with the window in the down position. At this point I removed the 4 torx screws from the cover of the motor. I now turned the motor armature with my fingers and lowered the window. It takes a lot of turning to lower the window even a couple of inches. When the last nut is removed that holds the window to the regulator, carefully lower the glass into the door. Remove the mounting bolts that hold the window regulator in the door. I had to play with the window regulator, turning the motor armature, so that the window

 

Thanks for all the Info !!!! I will try it all this weekend [sm=icon_cheers.gif]