Have any of you come across this problem?:
I pulled out of the drive way, clutch was normal. Stepped on the clutch pedal to go to second around 2kRPM. When I did that, it made a loud popping sound and I couldn't get out of first easily. I forced it out and couldn't get into second with out forcing it. The pedal came back up when released, but going to step on it again (trying to pump up some pressure), it became noticeably harder pedal effort. It was like the pedal pressure had multiplied 10 fold. It was way harder than my linkage style clutch in my '69 Nova.
Do you think it's the master cylinder, slave cylinder, or the clutch it's self?
I shut down and put it in first and cranked it on to get back to home. I've put it in the garage and was going to pull off the exhaust to get it out of the way to drop the bell housing and torque tube. I hope it's the master cylinder, because that's a lot easier to remove and replace.
Any one have this happen? What is at fault?

 

Hi, I had a similar thing happen to me on a 280Z with a hydrolic clutch. turned out to be one of the fingers on the clutch became loose and jamed against the throw out bearing makeing it hard to disingage. can you look in the fork opening and see if anything is out of place? hopefully it is just the slave cylinder as you suspect. that is easer to rebuild or replace. good luck. Cheers

 

You have pressure plate problems or a spring broke in the clutch disc causing the clutch fingers to not be able to depress all the way.

 

Fork opening? It's a slave cylinder enclosed in the bell housing.[X(] I don't even think there is an inspection hole for looking in there.
Well, the two of you think it's a clutch release finger problem. I'm guessing the clutch is not salvage-able at this point.:/
Some dude told me a guy on LS1 tech dot com is selling a Ram clutch for $350 Is this a good buy? Supposed to have stood up behind a turbo set up. Or should I just go with a LS7 clutch and flywheel? I was thinking about getting a LGM G5X3 2xx, 2xx, .600, .610, 112/114
Don't know what kind of power this thing will put out with some fresh heads and minor porting done. Was thinking about shelling out lots more for a twin plate clutch. Or an Austrailian single disc.

 

Sorry, I'm not familiar with the newer trannies. Didn't reallize everything is inclosed. still the clutch is same as always. take a look inside if you can. but Mech259 Knows his cadooky about this stuff and you can be sure of that. Hope you have some good luck with it. cheers

 

Well, the flywheel on your Vette is what is called a Dual Mass flywheel. Meaning, it's 2 pieces with springs built into for a smoother transistion when taking off. I sure wouldn't change the stock clutch with out changing the flywheel. If you go aftermarket, there are replacement flywheels and clutches that are single mass. [8D]

 

If you never have changed a clutch in a C5, it is a pain, especially without a lift. The transmission is made on the rear differential with a driveshaft enclosure bolted to the transmission and the bell housing. The differential, transmission, & driveshft enclosure have to be removed as a unit to gain access to the clutch. [:-] Certainly no job for an amateur. I've done 3 or 4 and its no fun as a proffesional. [:'(]

 

Well, I'm a coach mechanic. I wasn't affraid of takeing the job. I finally got my headers and x-pipe out of the way. That was a pain[:@]. Took off the plugs, wires, and coil packs to get them off. Plus had to take the bottom of the steering shaft off. Passenger side was the same, plus the dip stick tube and starter. Found a website from some guy called cajundude.com. Pretty help full[sm=smiley20.gif]. I shoulda bought the service manual for this car long ago. Pulled off the inspection plate (was virtually seemless, hard to see) found three fingers of the diaphragm bent. There's a Luk stamp on the pressure plate. Wonder if that's a stocker or some one replaced it already. I'm the second owner. First guy traded it in for a pickup at 27Kmiles.[sm=loser.gif]
Any way, pulled the passenger side CV the way cajundude said, went ok. Drivers side fell appart on the inner joint[sm=badidea.gif]. Had to remove the hub to finish removing it.
All I have left to do tomorrow is remove all the tie downs for wires and brake lines/cables and then drop the trans/diff. I stuck a couple of mounted wheels under the oil pan to keep it from hitting the firewall when I remove the drivetrain. This job is a bear, but it beats the paying some one else to do it.
I wonder if the medium duty/heavy duty dealership carries a twin disc clutch that will fit in place an be cheaper than the Textrailia or Exceedy?

 

What do you think about a Ram street dual with a Fidanza Al 12.5# FW? Read that it is awesome for rev matching shifts and is not to much to bare in street driving, once you get used to reving up an extra 500RPM. I shift really quick. My dad always asks why I shift like that and I tell 'im it's practice. Took my clutch down today and when removing the PP the stuck levers popped back out. I figure if it happend once, it'll happen again. Metal fatigued. The friction plate is hardly worn out at all. My buddy that helped me remove it says it's because I know how to drive[sm=gears.gif]. Some heat checks on the PP and FW though.