Pads, Rotor, or Hub Assembly??
#1
Pads, Rotor, or Hub Assembly??
I replaced my brake pads hoping that this would fix the issue with the noise coming form the front wheel. Nope. Took it to a mechanic to let him see the issue. He said maybe the hub assembly and also my rotors were dangerously thin. I'm hoping that the rotor will resolve the issue. I say this b/c there was not too much movement in the wheel when the mech tried to move it laterally. My rotors were pretty thin and rusty. Rotors are way cheaper than a new hub assembly. I found the hub for cheapest price at ROCKAUTO.COM for $130.00 the cheaper one. The best price on rotors were $29.00 a pair 12" from EBAY.COM.
I guess... please wish me luck.
I guess... please wish me luck.
#2
RE: Pads, Rotor, or Hub Assembly??
Hi ZR1clone, First let me tell you that I have no knowledge of C4's, but every rotor has a minimum thickness that it can be turned down to. Rust is bad and can cause noise, but that can be eliminated by turning if the rust is not too deep. Also on the edge of the rotor is the minimum thickness that it can be turned down. See if a shop can mic the rotors and see if there is enough left to turn them totrue them up. After they mic them ask them if it will be cheeper if you remove the rotors and then have them turned, you can save some labor costs that way. PG.
#3
RE: Pads, Rotor, or Hub Assembly??
Thanks, PG. You always seem to have good advice and ways to save a few bucks. By "mic" do you mean inspect them or look at them or something. The rotors are pretty thin. I'll try to get a local brake shop to look at them tomorrow or by the weekend. Thanks again PG.
#4
RE: Pads, Rotor, or Hub Assembly??
Hi again, I think that you have a 1990 Vette, so correct me if I'm wrong.
All rotors have a minimum thickness that they can be turned down to.
On the edge of the rotor there is stamped the minimum thickness that they can be turned down. Remove the tire and have the shop put a micrometer ( a mic ) on the rotor. If they think that it can be turned and stay above the minimum than ask them if you can go home and remove the rotors and bring them back to be turned. This way you won't have to pay them the labor to remove the calipers, turn the rotors and reinstall them.
On the C3's the hub and rotor was assembled as a unit, and they were rivited together, I'm not sure if the C4's were made that way.
Last thing to check is the diameter of the rotor, I'm not sure if the ZR1 had larger rotors than the production cars, you have to check to figure that out. PG>
All rotors have a minimum thickness that they can be turned down to.
On the edge of the rotor there is stamped the minimum thickness that they can be turned down. Remove the tire and have the shop put a micrometer ( a mic ) on the rotor. If they think that it can be turned and stay above the minimum than ask them if you can go home and remove the rotors and bring them back to be turned. This way you won't have to pay them the labor to remove the calipers, turn the rotors and reinstall them.
On the C3's the hub and rotor was assembled as a unit, and they were rivited together, I'm not sure if the C4's were made that way.
Last thing to check is the diameter of the rotor, I'm not sure if the ZR1 had larger rotors than the production cars, you have to check to figure that out. PG>
#5
RE: Pads, Rotor, or Hub Assembly??
I wouldn't buy rotors 'til someone showed me a bad rotor...
That's the ole Fully Automatic Assault Wallet approach. Spray the problem with cash and parts, and hope it goes away[sm=shootshoot.gif][sm=violent053.gif]
That's the ole Fully Automatic Assault Wallet approach. Spray the problem with cash and parts, and hope it goes away[sm=shootshoot.gif][sm=violent053.gif]
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post