Trailing Arm Bolt Removal
#11
10-23-2007, 10:51 AM
RE: Trailing Arm Bolt Removal
C3 Starship
I believe I can help, although i have Cubase SX3 i think most of the operation are the same
Contact me at "gmaj7@msn.com
I believe I can help, although i have Cubase SX3 i think most of the operation are the same
Contact me at "gmaj7@msn.com
)
#13
10-31-2007, 11:11 PM
RE: Trailing Arm Bolt Removal
Hello everybody I finally removed the Trailingarm off my 73.I was out there 3 days trying to knock out
or Cut out the Trailing Arm Bolt.
First I went to Home Deport and got a Very VeryLarge Carpenters pry Bar.It was the biggest one that
they had in the Store. I think i payed $60 for it.I came home and spend 25min Cutting off the bar so I
Could Hit The Trailing Arm Bolt.You see the Bar was not a Stright Bar it was the right Shape with the
Curbed end right on top of the Bolt. And i Cut the other end to make Flat, because
I was using a very Large Hammer.I put the Bar in place and Hit the Bar as Hard as i could hit it.
Iam here to tell you the dam thing did not move.The Bushings were Rusted to the Bolt.
I tried to Saw it off and I could not get to the Bolt the saw was hitting the metal Shims.
I Soaked them with PBblasters and used a large Screw driver and began to move the Shim up and then down to get them out of the way of my Sazall.
I notice that the Shims had started to move outward.just a little.
Thats wheni came to the conclusion, that the Shims are supose to be removed before Cuttiing the Bolt.
So I sprayed a lot of PBblasters all over the Shims.and start moving first with a screw driver and hammer.
After i got them to move freely i got the Grip plyers,soaked them again with PBblasters oil,and start moving them up and down with GripPlyers,I opend the Grip plyiers wide enought so I could grab
the shims from top to bottom,not on the side.As i move the Shims up and down I pulled shightly outward
and they began to slide out.
Now i had a clear view of where to put the blake of my Sawzall.I used a "9INC CARBIDE BLADE
it's the best blade for hard metal. I could had got a regular blade and still got the job done.
It might be some cases that a Trailing Arm Bolt can be knock out,but it's going to be very Rare.
I think cutting the bolt is the only way to go Hester
or Cut out the Trailing Arm Bolt.
First I went to Home Deport and got a Very VeryLarge Carpenters pry Bar.It was the biggest one that
they had in the Store. I think i payed $60 for it.I came home and spend 25min Cutting off the bar so I
Could Hit The Trailing Arm Bolt.You see the Bar was not a Stright Bar it was the right Shape with the
Curbed end right on top of the Bolt. And i Cut the other end to make Flat, because
I was using a very Large Hammer.I put the Bar in place and Hit the Bar as Hard as i could hit it.
Iam here to tell you the dam thing did not move.The Bushings were Rusted to the Bolt.
I tried to Saw it off and I could not get to the Bolt the saw was hitting the metal Shims.
I Soaked them with PBblasters and used a large Screw driver and began to move the Shim up and then down to get them out of the way of my Sazall.
I notice that the Shims had started to move outward.just a little.
Thats wheni came to the conclusion, that the Shims are supose to be removed before Cuttiing the Bolt.
So I sprayed a lot of PBblasters all over the Shims.and start moving first with a screw driver and hammer.
After i got them to move freely i got the Grip plyers,soaked them again with PBblasters oil,and start moving them up and down with GripPlyers,I opend the Grip plyiers wide enought so I could grab
the shims from top to bottom,not on the side.As i move the Shims up and down I pulled shightly outward
and they began to slide out.
Now i had a clear view of where to put the blake of my Sawzall.I used a "9INC CARBIDE BLADE
it's the best blade for hard metal. I could had got a regular blade and still got the job done.
It might be some cases that a Trailing Arm Bolt can be knock out,but it's going to be very Rare.
I think cutting the bolt is the only way to go Hester
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