I took the block to the machinist today and I was mistaken on the casting and it is indeed a 350 and it had recently been rebuilt and he said we’re going to bore.040 over and everything should be good to go. The guy I
bought the car from said his son hit a rut and smashed the oil pan and that was when the rod broke,with no other visible damage to the block. I will find out next week if all is well.

 

Must have been one hell of a rut. Did he have to go 40 over instead of 30 because it had already been bored once before and they just wanted to clean it up? What pistons are you going to go with now?

Make sure that he pressure checks the block to expose any minor cracks that you can't see with the naked eye. Don't ask me how I know that.

I did learn yesterday when I was checking out the manifold that a 302 can be built from a 327 or a 350 block because they both have a 4" bore.

I lucked out in a way when I had my engine machine work done in that he had a different process than hot tanking for cleaning the block. He first put it in a oven and baked it at a high temperature to solidify and dry out all the crud. Then he had this rotary carousel inside a enclosure that fired small shot at the block from all directions which then knocked the crud off. When he got done, the block looked like it had just come out of the foundry.

 

Yes to clean up the cylinders and said he pressure tests.flat tops and 262 comp cam and have not decided on heads yet.He just does hot tank

 

This may sound odd but since I removed the engine and many electrical tests require key-on
can I check all electrical systems w/o starter hooked up or grounded? Thought I would start seeing what does or does not work. Don’t know if all his story is true but the 6” crack in the rear quarter was a hard impact which may have caused the rod failure after smashing the oil pan in the rut and over correction and hit something.