Check Engine Light Wont Go Off
Hi, I'm new to the forum - but I'm at my wits end and I'm hoping I can get an answer here (since you all are Vette experts!
)
My car sputtered and died one day on my way to work. The mechanic changed the distributor, cap & wires. I didn't notice the check engine light on before that happened, but when I got the car back, it was on. I asked the mechanic to run diagnostics from front to back (I didn't want to have another problem.) No other issues were found, but he couldn't reset the warning light. We tried checking some of the fixes I found online (like changing the gas cap, resetting the codes with an OBDII scanner - which I tried a couple of times, but the light comes back on a few minutes later. I also read that the Powertrain Control Module requires several "drive cycles" (50-100 miles) to verify the fix. Does this just mean to drive it? (I've been apprehensive since it stalled on me because it happened in the middle of a busy intersection during the AM commute and I don't want to be in that position again!) I'm sorry if I sound like a stupid girl - but I am a girl - woman, actually - and I just want my car fixed! Just FYI - I've been dealing with this since September and I just want my car running good again! Any other suggestions of what could be the cause of this problem will be greatly appreciated!
Thank you.
)My car sputtered and died one day on my way to work. The mechanic changed the distributor, cap & wires. I didn't notice the check engine light on before that happened, but when I got the car back, it was on. I asked the mechanic to run diagnostics from front to back (I didn't want to have another problem.) No other issues were found, but he couldn't reset the warning light. We tried checking some of the fixes I found online (like changing the gas cap, resetting the codes with an OBDII scanner - which I tried a couple of times, but the light comes back on a few minutes later. I also read that the Powertrain Control Module requires several "drive cycles" (50-100 miles) to verify the fix. Does this just mean to drive it? (I've been apprehensive since it stalled on me because it happened in the middle of a busy intersection during the AM commute and I don't want to be in that position again!) I'm sorry if I sound like a stupid girl - but I am a girl - woman, actually - and I just want my car fixed! Just FYI - I've been dealing with this since September and I just want my car running good again! Any other suggestions of what could be the cause of this problem will be greatly appreciated!
Thank you.
Welcome to the forums. Sorry to hear that your Baby is giving you Grief. Not sure how many experts you will find here, most of us are like you, Learn as we go. Good mechanics today are only as good as the tools they have and do they know how to use them. If the check engine light was on before the dist. issue I think you would have noticed. If it's running good now you should be able drive it around and see if it relearns. Maybe drive it in a less populated area if that makes you less uneasy. If the light doesen't quit you might consider a differen't shop with better (differen't) tools. There is always the option of taking your car to a Tunner who can put a light tune to your car which I have found will get you a bit more power and mpg on average, (stepping up from the factory emissions tune) and the have ways of scanning the inside of your ECM for issues. If it's running good I would try a few miles on it and see how it does. I think you have done all of the obvious things.
If the check engine light is on, there should be a readable code! Even an inexpensive reader can help you. May I suggest you go get one, and a repair manual as well. You too can turn wrench, ask my wife...
Welcome to the forum. I agree with 74HARLEY that a CEL should have a detectable code. Shorting pins A & B together in the ALDL connector on an OBD1 (pre '96) car will cause it to flash the numerical code for any stored codes. You mentioned resetting the codes several times. Do you know codes were reset?
Thank you everyone who answered. To clarify, we did use the scanner to "reset" the codes, and after resetting and after we changed the gas cap, the light went off, but was back on again after about 10 minutes. Its so frustrating! In the past, if an idiot light came on (that's what I call the warning lights), once the issue was corrected, I had to reset the light. It always turned off and stayed off. The mechanic also scanned the car for any other issue(s), but other than the distributor cap and a sensor that was also replaced, there doesn't seem to be any other issues.
I think I will take Thomas' suggestion and drive it on the city streets around my house, see if I can get the light to go off. That was one of the suggestions I found online - it said "drive cycles" and I wasn't sure if this meant something specific, but maybe it just means drive it for 50-100 miles (miles it gave online). I'll keep my fingers crossed!
Thank you, all, again!
I think I will take Thomas' suggestion and drive it on the city streets around my house, see if I can get the light to go off. That was one of the suggestions I found online - it said "drive cycles" and I wasn't sure if this meant something specific, but maybe it just means drive it for 50-100 miles (miles it gave online). I'll keep my fingers crossed!
Thank you, all, again!
thomas 77: Thank you so much! I'm sorry for not thanking you sooner. I've been distracted with work stuff, but I'm ready to focus on my car again. I also tried driving it for 50-100 miles to see if the light went off on it's own, but it didn't.
We'll take a look at what you sent and see if we can get that light off!
We'll take a look at what you sent and see if we can get that light off!
The check engine is annoying. I think after 50 starts it resets itself. I find it odd that distribuor cap and wires would shut the engine completely down, you would expect a engine misfire at most. If the light is on usually for a reason. The ECMs don't always diagnose themselfs very well, there could be an issue with the ECM itself, or there's a possibility there could be an issue with the Prom. There are services that can check them out for you, Or replace or exchange or buy. if there is a error codes stored in the ECM it should pop up, 3 xs then deletes itself, if you go by the flashing lights. I have had ecms tell me they are bad and I have replaced them, and later find out there was nothing wrong with them, witch leaves me to believe the issue must have been with the ECM connector. Pull the ECM connector and clean the contacts with electronic cleaner, and check the ground connections.
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