I always put no. 1. (after dropping into the oil pump) around 7:30 to 8.
Actually, you can set no. 1 anywhere you want on the dist. cap as long as the rotor points to that tower and you follow the correct firing order from that point on.

 

Also, look at the firing order already on your dist. cap so you can determine where #1 is already. Either way is fine, but you don't have to change the order of the wires that way, but as C3 says, make sure you are on the compression stroke. I just put my finger over the hole and feel for the compression stroke. Don't be fooled because the exhaust stroke will have minor compression. Spin the engine over a couple of times to determine the difference if you have trouble distinguishing the difference. You can actually put #1 wherever you want as long the firing order coincides with dist. rotation. :-)

 

True mech, the comp stroke will have a lot more push on your finger.

 

Thanks guys! Heres an update, I got everything back in time, installed the new cap, rotor and coil. Not change in the problem. I verified fuel pressure and that the computer was commaning the injectors with a noid light. Also, i am getting spark. Im running out of ideas...

 

My '90 sat for a year or thereabouts and had similar issues. I had 5 injectors gone or going bad. I am going to order the Bosch replacements from Jon at Corvetteinjectors.com. I'll let you know how it goes.

http://www.corvetteinjectors.com/sho...?productid=247

 

I don't know a lot about injectors, but after you mentioning that your 'puter was doing it's job, I was thinkin' "injectors". Then after reading gilbertine's post, thanks for sounding out BTW, I'm sold on the injectors being at fault.

How to test them?
I'm not real sure. Never done it.
I recall a mention of checking OHMs, but not sure where and no idea of resistance required.

Thanks again, Gil. Every little bit helps!
Oh ya,......
Welcome to CFs!

 

Code 42 usually means a problem with the ESC (Electronic Spark Control) module. It is on the opposite side from the battery, is flat with a 5 or 6 wire connector. If it is gone it could retard your timing. Have you looked at timing with the "Set Timing" connector dis conneted then connected? It should be @ base timing disconnected, then advanced when connected.

 

I had the injectors replaced a couple years ago, they only have about 35,000miles on them. But I gess they could have gone bad. I did Ohm check them and they are all about 14.7-15.0ohms. Not sure of another way to test them. I still have to check timing like Mech suggested, but after that, im out of ideas.

 

What is your base timing?

 

Ok, i got it all figured out! It was the commputer. I was able to get the car to start and checked the timing. It was staying at base (6btc) and wasnt changing even with the connector connected. So I gave the commuter a little tap and the car stumbled and died. I pused on the case a little and shaked it and got the same effect. Something must be loose inside because when I put pressure on it the car will start and stableize. I wiggled the wires to make sure it wasnt a loose connecting but that didnt have any effects so its a connection inside the ECU. I opened it up, but could see anything broken or loose.