I would expect those low mile cars to need to rubber pretty badly. When rubber sits it dries out. When it is used it pushes oils though itself and helps prevent dry rotting. Goes with the old saying, a car is better ridden hard and put up wet than left sitting dry.

FYI, my 1995 is pushing 190K.

 

This link talks about how to rest the CD.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ry-change.html

I will bring a CD when i see the car again to see if it works, etc.
The Tires are the correct size and rating Front and rear.
I did not check the date codes yet.
Plenty of tread.
For now I will just assume the tires were low. The owner did fill up all 4 tires after we got back to his home.
I am not too worried about the tires at this time.
While we are on the topic of Tires. Any recommendations for Daily driver Z tires?




The Colder Outside, the lower the price

Dash shot of the 95-white top.

 

The Rims on this 95-White top, look original?
The image is not clear enough to identify the brand.

 

Yes, those rims look original. Normally if there is a problem with a tire sensor you will also get the LTPWS light you saw on the first one you looked at. I don't know a good brand tire for daily driving. I personally would not recommend driving your desired car as a daily driver. Vettes have their parts engineered differently every 2-3 years, which can make finding interior parts or odds and ends difficult to find and/or pricey. Many parts from the '93 do not work or have been changed by the '94 - '96 models. So, you basically have that 3 year window to get parts from.
If you are looking to use it as a daily, I highly recommend having the ECM reprogrammed to have the cooling fans turn on sooner. From the factory the 1st fan doesn't kick on until the motor is like 230 degrees. I was freaking out when I fist bought my car and saw the temps going that high. I programmed mine to turn on at 180 and am thinking about turning even lower for my hot state of Florida. If it is a manual, also turn off the 1st to 4th forced shift.

Check the coolant on any car you look at. To replace the heater core, properly, you basically have to take everything out from the dash down. I replaced mine while I was replacing my dash support fame, it still looked in great condition, but I was already there and with the age of the car I figured it was cheap insurance. Just be sure it looks like they've taken decent care of the cooling system.

 

Thanks for the tips "thatguy". I have a infrared temperature tool and can use to verify the values.
What do you need to Reprogram the fan settings. The fan start temp of 230 sounds very high.
I normally try to keep my Oldsmobile 180 for the small engines and 190 for the 400-455 ci.
The Vetts I am looking at will be Automatics.

I got my deposit back on the Red-94 with the damaged PS vent section.
The dealer said, it took a full week to get a NOS version of the vent panel. This car will not be back on the market for a full week, due to painting and gouge repairs to the hood.
The dealer was very understanding when told him I had found another Vett.
Humm, sounds like a Beatles song, instead of Vett, another Girl.

Today there are over 8x 94-96 Convertibles within 150 miles of Boston for sale. Priced 6-15k.
Going back for a second look and drive of a 95 tomorrow.

 

They sell relay's to trick the computer to come on early, but I bought TunerCATs software to reprogram the computer.
There is also a free software called TunerPro that will work too, but you need the OBDI with OBDII plug for a 95.
EEHack is another free software out there that is great for data logging if you wanted to tune your car for performance or fuel efficiency.

I bought mine for $5500 but am in almost 12.5K two years later.
Here is a short long list of what I've done:
Replaced all bushings with poly, replaced all suspension components.
Upgraded front brakes to C5-C6 style, with braided lines all around.
Replaced all vacuum lines (my cruise control works again)
Replaced the head unit, and made custom boxes for all speakers. When I bought the car I found out someone screwed speakers to wood and the wood to the car. I wondered why is sounded so bad on the test drive.
Replaced all corner lamp sockets. Most had blown bulbs fused to them.
Upgraded to five start C5 rims
Replaced a few wire harness plugs: Optispark vented wiring harness, Optispark distributor wire harness. MAP sensor connector pigtail harness
Rebuilt my steering column.
Valve cover gaskets and oil pan gasket.

Oh ya, if you plan on working on your car yourself at all, I highly recommend getting a C4 EZ-Jack or make something similar if you have the tools. Otherwise jacking up your rear end is a major pain. Also make yourself some ramps or buy low profile rams. The car only has 4 true jacking points so I usually jack from center points and then put my jack stands on the jacking points. Without ramps you can't get a jack to the central point in the front of the car.

 

The second test drive of the 1995 C4 Convertible went great.

All fluids toped off. All tires filled to 32 psi. Brakes good. No Warning lights.
I checked under the body.
Front spoiler intact, no signs of undercarriage damage from curbs or other stuff.
Accelerates straight. Brakes straight. No Pulling when breaking.
Engine smooth. All gauges worked and the digital readouts has similar values as the analog gauges. Air temperature was 45f, Engine temperature at 65mph was 195.

Sunny dry day. Light traffic.

100 miles later I was home.
Its mine now.

I guess will end this thread and start a new thread.
Thanks everyone.
I am no longer "Shopping Around for a C4".
Miles

 

Congrats on your purchase!